

🔧 Upgrade your ride with Timken’s powerhouse axle bearing – where strength meets smart tech!
The Timken SP500300 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly combines high-alloy steel construction with advanced seal technology and a Blue-Connector passive sensor, delivering durable, reliable performance and easy integration with modern vehicle systems. Designed for longevity and precision fit, it’s a top-rated replacement part trusted by professionals and enthusiasts alike.










| ASIN | B001EGT3I4 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #66,746 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #159 in Automotive Replacement Hub Assemblies Bearings |
| Brand | TIMKEN |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars (1,105) |
| Date First Available | August 18, 2008 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Weight | 13.2 pounds |
| Item model number | SP500300 |
| Manufacturer | Timken |
| Manufacturer Part Number | SP500300 |
| Model | Axle Bearing |
| Position | Center |
| Product Dimensions | 8.6 x 8.6 x 5.2 inches |
E**N
Good value
Great quality replacement part
P**M
Good unit
This is my second of these Timken bearing/hubs from Amazon, I replaced the left side last year, now the right side bearing died. Both of my units have US-made bearings, real nice. The bearing I bought last year, with about 20,000 miles on it, is working fine, it's tight and quiet. The original hub bearings lasted about 285,000 miles, which I'm told is amazing. Replacement is easy once you get the old ones off, but mine were very difficult to remove after a dozen years. Don't believe the YouTube videos that show replacement on brand new vehicles or somebody pounding and prying for an hour on the old unit, this will do nothing but put you in a bad mood if your old hubs are fused onto the steering knuckle like mine were. A helpful expert told me that the hubs get fused on after eight or ten years and he shared with me that you need to use an air hammer against the corners of the triangular mounting plate in order to rotate it after you back out the three attachment bolts. This makes the job easy - after you rotate the unit a half turn or so it will come right out. Much easier than pounding all day or trying to get the thing out with a chisel.
G**N
Fixed the noise on my 2003 suburban
Been experiencing a rubbing friction sound at low speeds. I replaced a few parts but sound still persisted. Hoping these hubs would fix the low speed sound and it did, the sound was immediately gone. The part itself looks and feels like quality, the install was easy as everything fit as it should. Hoping these will last me a long time
E**R
Gm quality with a discount
I ordered a pair of these for my Tahoe. the fit was perfect. not hard to put on at all if you have any idea what your doing. Took me about 45 min per side would have been faster if I didnt decide to degrease and clean surrounding parts. I rated a 4 because they state to have the updated abs sensor connection , however they did indeed have the classic body connection. I just swapped the sensor with my old ones and all is well. Will review again after a few months of driving on them
A**R
Same as original. Would buy again.
Perfect fit for 2003 Tahoe 4wd. Same manufacturer as original. I will not even bother with any other brands. Timken is known for good bearings and this one was made in the USA. I recommend buying a 6 point 15mm wrench to help with the 3 bolts (tightened to 133 lb. ft.) holding the hub in. They can be a bit tough to loosen and if you slip even a little with a 12 point wrench could round the head. It was a pain to drive it out of the knuckle. 13 years of crud and some corrosion glued it in there. None of the hub removal tools looked like they would work in this case. I ended up hammering it out. Next time, I might try pushing the axle out a bit and see if I can get a brass punch in there to help drive it out from the back. I can tell you in my case the hub was mostly stuck in the bottom half; the upper part was pretty clean. The nut (36mm) holding the axle in place is not supposed to be reused. It was cheap enough from a local dealer, but it looks like you could use blue thread locker (don't quote me). Torque nut to 177 lb. ft.
W**.
Cant beat the price or quality
Top quality and great price. Still working in my Yukon
R**S
Amazon's Price Couldn't Be Beat
Purchased these Timken hubs after much research and on line price comparison. I wanted to buy a product that was US made and although I can't vouch for the the whole hub assembly being US made at least the bearings themselves have the "Made in the USA" stamp on them! Every site, including Timken's own on line catalog, except for Amazon.com stated that these would fit my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Ext Cab 5.3 V8 4wd. For some reason Amazon.com thinks my truck has 8 lug hubs, yes I have all the correct info concerning my truck entered correctly, when even a 1st grader could count the 6 lugs I actually have! With the exception of removing the wheel hub bolts (15mm) the process of removing the brake caliper, brake caliper bracket (18mm bolts on mine) and wheel hub nut (36mm) was fairly straightforward and there are plenty of youtube videos to guide you step by step. In addition to the two hub assemblies, both of mine decided to go out at the same time, I also purchased 2 sets of Dorman 917-517 Wheel hub bolts because I didn't want to use old bolts on new hub assemblies. I read in one of the reviews here that an air chisel was used and recommended to remove the hub assembly from the steering knuckle so I borrowed one just in case. I started removing the hub assembly with a hand chisel and 2# sledge hammer and in short order the hub assemblies popped out of the steering knuckle's so I didn't have to use the air chisel. The axle slid right out with just a gentle tap of a plastic mallet. I used a wire brush on my drill to clean up the hub assembly housing on the steering knuckle until it nice a shiny then coated it lightly with wheel bearing grease to help prevent it rusting up again. I also lightly coated the axle splines with wheel bearing grease. The new hub assemblies slid right on the axles and into the steering knuckle ( Note: On my truck the wheel hub bolts can only be removed and installed while the hub assembly is off) and using a little blue locktite on the wheel hub bolts I bolted the hub assembly in place, and installed a new wheel bearing nuts(locally purchased) torquing it to 150 lbs (that's as high as my beam torque wrench goes) although I did purchase a Husky(Made in USA) brand 50-250 lbs torque wrench at Home Depot for $85 to re torque them to 177lbs as most info has recommended. Doing one side at a time, cleaning caliper slide bolts, replacing two of them and four slide bolt boots my total time from start to finish was about 4 hours. Considering dealers get about $500 per hub assembly and taking into consideration the total cost of parts and tools I saved at least $500 by doing it myself.
T**Y
For my 2004 Yukon Denali, front end.
I was seriously worried about this purchase. It was by far the cheapest set of hubs I could find locally or online, AND I got free shipping. I was skeptical that I wasn't going to get the right part or that the sensors wouldn't work or that is was just inferior (even though it's american-made). I WAS WRONG to be worried. The quality is outstanding. I have nearly 1,000 miles on these hubs (installed on both the left and right front end), and there have been no issues. The only real issue was getting the old ones off, but that has nothing to do with the old hubs. For that, I highly recommend you copiously spray/soak the bolts in "knock-er loose", or something similar, and let it sit overnight. Then apply heat if needed. If you strip the heads of the 3 bolts when you take them off, like I did with a few, it'll probably cost you $12 a pop from a dealership to replace them.
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