1 Wire GM Alternator SCITOO New Alternator Fit for Chevy High Output 12V 105Amp 10SI Self-exciting SBC BBC GM Replace #ADR0335 7127-SE105 400-12340 ADR0151 20-102-7

I installed this unit in my 08 Hyundai Accent. It fit perfectly and I had no issues replacing the original unit. So far, the alternator works well.Update 7/1/25: Well, it worked for several months and thats it. My car is pretty basic and contains all the factory specs. My OEM Hyundai alternator lasted from 2008 to late 2024, and and a few days ago this alternator left my car stranded with a ~$300 tow bill. The problems started as strange behavior with dashboard lights and then after turning off the engine it wouldn't crank again. At first I blamed my brand new battery, I jumped the car to see if that's the issue. The car fired up and then maybe 5 minutes later all the electronics started to malfunction. This happened each time the car was jumped. Basically the battery gets charged enough to start the car but the alternator is not able to maintain a charge to power the electronics. Another strange symptom was that the RPMs gauge in the dash became unresponsive. After towing the car the battery is totally dead. Thinking the car is basically done, I did some research and all the signs pointed to a failing alternator.7/6/2025: This is the final update. I've switched the star rating back to 5. The reason for this change is that after investigating, the catastrophic failure was not due to the alternator but there was an installation error ie the ground wire bolt was not tight enough. The wire eventually failed to make a solid connection and the car couldn't get a charge. After fixing the ground, recharging the battery, and several days of checking the voltage at idle and driving; the alternator has shown consistent voltage levels within the proper specs: over 14V while driving, >=13V at idle when there is minimal load placed on the car (AC on medium, basic headlights, radio). For the size car and alternator amps I've read it's normal for the Accent to have voltage drop at idle under heavy load below 13V but that 1500+ RPMs is where you test if the alternator is properly carrying the heavy load. While driving I cranked the AC and the voltage never dropped below 14V at roughly 2000RPMs. All tests have thus far past since the loss of power issue.

Great fit and has been working great so far. that and it was about 140 bucks cheaper on her than anywhere else

Affordable, looks the same. Functions as it should no complaints. Seems to be made to similar quality as original part. If you have the tools and a YouTube video it's relatively easy to install. Accurate to website description.

Been about 3 or 4 weeks and still going strong fit great price was great exact fit for my 2013 f150 xlt 4x4 5.0

Review for an alternator for a 2011 Hyundai Sonata.This product was as described.It fits my car perfectly and charges the battery.It's definitely a tight fit working on the bottom bolt.I watched YouTube University first. Some people said to get the bottom bolt from under the car, some said to go through the wheel well. In both cases, that required removing splash panels that I just didn't think was necessary.I was able to get at the bolt from above, it was really tight, but got it loose.The bottom mounting hole is slotted to make installation easier. You can put the bottom bolt in loosely and place it in the slot. Just make sure the positive power cable is oriented in the right direction. There isn't much slack!I removed the the vacuum assembly right behind the Alternator, and the disconnected the AC wire, both to make a little working room.My car now has a battery that actually charges so now I can get back home too!I've done a lot of YouTube U. maintenance on this vehicle, all with parts from Amazon.Life is grand!

It works...10 vdc output though.Usually a output of 12vdc to 14vdc is normal for a automotive dash meter. Meter should be right in the middle. But since Im working through the many, many issues an illiterate mechanic created, for this YJ. I dont even trust that. For now, I will just say, it works. Because, the vehicles amp meter may be off.

Greatly quality, seems to be functioning as it should, great price, was able to install even on my mini van which the alternator goes in a difficult area.

Hardest alternator I've ever done, mainly bc v6 and not much room in Japanese engine compartment for large ape hands. Had to take out a little if the cooling parts. One stupid clip that keeps the electrical from touching the alternator took FOREVER to get right; had to build a weird part to get it right.Anyway, drove it home about 20 miles, seemed fine, next day drove it to O'Reilly and it breaks down. I realize i filled it with "universal" concentrated coolant, so i drain about half of it, add water, and the electrical goes crazy. Coast/grind it into a parking lot, go home and get a different battery, drive it home. Didn't occur to me that the brand new alternator could be the issue. So i finally pull it out again and take it to 3 free testing places, luckily advanced auto parts had the right adapter to test it: FAIL.At this point it's been 30 days (we have another car), but Amazon is usually cool if you call them. Nope. Mfr wouldn't take it back.Ok. Bought a second one, installed it, it was fine. Running for about 6 months now. Sent the first one back in the second one's box. Sure, 'you get what you pay for' i guess. But i know that Chinese QC is not up to American standards as they simply pump out too many parts. Simple statistics. Whatever. Didn't have $700 to buy the OEM. WHATEVER.Hey, cool story.