Vintage Couture Tailoring

WOW! Even better than I expected. Everything about the book is exceptional. The number of photographs, the full description of all the textiles and tools, and the speed at which the author proceeds is perfect! The construction detail is exactly what I’m trying to develop in my own work and I can see this book is going to stay VERY close to me!

UPDATE: I would love to see this book added to the Kindle MatchBook program. The book is great, but I'm hesitant to carry it around for fear of losing or banging it up. I've been taking sewing and tailoring classes and am working up to making clothing for myself. I bought this book when it came out because it looked great online and upon receiving it I went through it and was very impressed by the photos and detailed description of techniques. I agree with at least one reviewer that the typeface could better, but it is not "almost impossible to read," as one reviewer said. Last week, I did my first serious pad stitching exercise and didn't like the results. I was frustrated because some people were telling me that it was just a diagonal stitch. I knew that couldn't be the case because a regular diagonal stitch leaves a big thread bar on the underside and with a permanent pad stitch the thread is not supposed to be visible. I couldn't figure out how to maneuver the needle through layers of canvas and fabric to create the half-chevron shape without exposing a sizeable stitch underneath. I looked at all the tailoring books I own, including Roberto Cabrera's "Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear", Stanley Hostek's "Hand Stitches For The Fine Custom Tailored Garment", and "Tailoring: The Classic Guide for Sewing the Perfect Jacket." Only the last title gave me a partial answer. Then I looked at this book. It provided the most detailed instructions by far, including the best needle to use. There was also an interesting anecdote about a French woman who had taken a master tailoring exam in the 1930s, which illuminated the standard that could be reached for this technique. An hour later, I was doing much better. I was pleased that my initial instincts had been correct; but I needed the additional finesse provided by this book. Many books fail to include the small tricks that make all the difference.

Amazing book. I have a carefully cultivated library of sewing books and this made the cut, despite the high price. Intended audience: In short, this book covers the construction of a blazer-type garment. I would say that this book is targeted those who are experienced enough with sewing to attempt some meticulous, old-fashioned techniques, such as handmade buttonholes, pad stitching, and shaping with an iron. It is not the sort of book to discuss things like fusible interfacing or other modern shortcuts. Content: I've read this book from cover to cover a few times, and while I have not tried every technique mentioned in the book, the instructions seem to be extremely clear. I found that both the chapters and sections are well-organized and well-defined. Visuals: This book has numerous color photographs, but nearly every single one is clear and informative (though not very enlarged. If you have trouble with things like newsprint, these may be troublesome). It does not spend resources on dramatic or artistic photography. What this book does NOT do: This book does not give you step-by-step instructions on how to drape a blazer, but it will teach you to do things like getting a collar to sit as intended. Also, while the advice about scissors is generally good, I would like to add that someone with smaller or weaker hands would want to go on the smaller end of the recommendation, or a different model that is more lightweight, but still high quality. My palm is three inches across, so attempting to use 12" shears of the all-metal varieties illustrated would be like attempting to wield a pair of hedge clippers with one hand. Instead I use a pair of 9" (very sharp) professional shears that are made to be lightweight, with the metal extending through the handle for strength, but plastic for the grips for comfort and a lighter weight.

This book is a must for anyone who wants to tailor beautiful garments. The directions are easy to understand, and the book is well illustrated.

I'm really delighted with this book, which provides step-by-step photos and instructions for tailoring a classic woman's suit jacket. The methods shown are those used by the tailors of Savile Row and couture houses, and the author doesn't attempt to simplify or abridge the process, thus affording the tailoring enthusiast a means to acquire the skills necessary to produce a professionally tailored garment, not just a simulacrum. The information provided in this book is clear, well-organized, minutely detailed, and very satisfying if you're curious about what goes into a vintage tailored jacket. I am finding the sections on pressing especially helpful and enlightening, and would recommend this book to anyone who is serious about learning to tailor or who wishes to bring their skills to a higher level. If you follow the instructions, you should be able to use any tailored jacket pattern you like to produce beautiful and professional tailored clothing.

Das Buch ist der Wahnsinn, wirklich klasse. Viel Text, viele Erklärungen, sehr viele Fotos.. Die vorgestellten Techniken sind sehr arbeitsaufwendig, aber es lohnt sich. Alle notwendigen Arbeitsschritte sind sehr ausführlich erklärt und bebildert. Meine Jacke ist dank Thomas von Northeim ein erstklassiges Stück geworden. Ich kann das Buch allerdings nur Fortgeschrittenen empfehlen und ums Mit-der-Hand-Nähen kommt man nicht drum herum. Für alle, die eine wunderbare Einführung in das Schneiderhandwerk bzw.. Tailoring erwarten, es wird kein "dressmaking" behandelt. Das Englisch ist auch nicht zu schwierig geschrieben, solang man ein paar Schneider- Vokabeln kennt. TOP!

This book is a must have for anyone who is interesting in couture tailoring. I eagerly awaited the publication of this book after Mr von Nordheim was recommended to me as a tutor: I was not disappointed. The book guides you step by step through the processes involved in creating a jacket. The text is clearly written and enhanced by the numerous pictures. Mr von Nordheim puts the subject into context historically and also explains the techniques, tools and materials used in couture tailoring clearly and concisely. Each chapter of the book deals with a specific aspect of the process, rather than detailing the creation of a jacket following the sequence of work. I found this structure particularly useful when using the book as a reference e.g. when making buttonholes or pockets. The techniques in the book are not difficult, however they demand time, practice and attention to detail to execute properly. This book has become a favorite of mine in the short time I've owned it. My sewing, especially hand sewing skills have improved exponentially since owning this book.

O livro é bem detalhado, mas a execução do blaser é toda costurada a mão. Achei ultrapassado. Já vi livros bem melhores no segmento alfaiataria.

This is the best of the three tailoring books I bought. The photos and the detailed descriptions are great. The writer has a real passion for tailoring and teaching this which I have found fantastic.

A fabulous book and if you are as fortunate as I was to have Thomas as a tutor for Couture Tailoring at the London College of Fashion you will appreciate it even more. He also offers workshops at his own studio as shown on his website vonnordheim.co.uk. I especially appreciated learning how to construct a beautifully rolled lapel using pad stitching as well as a professional hand stitched button hole using a button hole stitch. I had already been hand stitching button holes but his method takes the skill to the next level. I am now much more confident in my ability to create a tailored “lined” jacket or coat rather than a simpler unlined garment. Don’t let the word vintage scare you off. The skills are as useful today as they were in the past.