CHANZON 10 pcs High Power Led Chip 3W White (6000K - 6500K / 600mA - 700mA / DC 3V - 3.4V / 3 Watt) Super Bright Intensity SMD COB Light Emitter Components Diode 3 W Bulb Lamp DIY Lighting

Excellent LED chips! Very bright and intense, actually much lower heat output than stated elsewhere, brilliant colors and the driver required to run them is very low cost, low heat and low power consumption as well. Very durable, I was sure I had to have sinked one when fumbling with my soldering and it got pretty hot but it took the heat great and didn't diminish it's performance or even deform it's little housing. Love these! I would recommend, however, just buying these already soldered to the hexagonal heat-sinks you can buy from the same company. Save some time and money not having to solder these to the heat-sinks yourself. I bought mine separate so I could add thermal paste between the Chip and the Sink for a project requiring very low heat output and these worked perfectly.

I have a pair of identical YDD Lightsabers that I bought on Amazon a few months ago - one green, one blue. I had the idea to use lightsabers for my up-coming gender reveal, because I'm a huge nerd and everyone knows it. I didn't want to spend $89 for another lightsaber in a different color, so I took the green one apart and got a look at what the LED was like - it looked identical to these ones here! I has a focusing lens on top of the LED, and the LED is soldered to a star-shaped board (which I also ordered), and there is a heat sink attached to the bottom of the star-shaped board. I re-purposed the focusing lens and the heat sink, and soldered one of the new Chanzon pink LED's onto one of the star-shaped boards that I bought for it, and then the wires to the lightsaber's control board and put it all back together. Even though the LED is 3W instead of the 5W green LED that was in it, it's nice and bright! This photo doesn't really do it justice, as the color is washed out and uneven through a camera lens, but isn't at all in person - it's a very bright, even color! Very happy with these LED's!

I picked these up to replace the burned out led bulbs in the Fire and Ice Halloween lights. They worked perfect. The exact replacement and now the units are like new again. Quick 10 minute fix! Thanks again.

I use it for LED light in the model stuff and RC

Have purchased multiple sets of these chips after great success with the first batch. So far, every chip has worked perfectly. Mounted to the corresponding heatsinks also from Chanzon with a tiny dab of thermal compound (I used Céramique by Arctic Silver) and haven't had any issues with the heat generated, although I am only driving them around 310mA using an LM317 (Chanzon specs 300-350). With the Chanzon star-shaped heatsinks, you could probably max them at 350mA without any trouble. (If you need a simple way to devise a constant current driver, just google "LM317 constant current". The LM317 adjustable voltage regulator IC can also be used in constant current mode with just a single resistor, and you will have much better success driving these LEDs than with only a current limiting resistor).

I was impressed that the parts were shipped in a sealed anti-static bag. Most of the parts I've bought from various sellers, except Jameco, usually come in a plain plastic bag which doesn't really inspire confidence in their reliability. I haven't had a problem (yet) but the parts are cheap enough. That said I unpacked the LEDs to test them (this is routine for me) and found that they are indeed extremely bright when driven with a 3v power source. A word of caution: these LEDs radiate up to 380 nm in the UVA spectrum (320 to 400 nm) so don't view them directly. The UV curing lights radiate at 410 nm so I guess you could cure UV glue with these devices. I haven't tried it yet but I probably will just for giggles and grins. They will activate fluorescent paint. Anyway I am pleased to say that I will be buying from this seller in the future. Update Mar 2019: I put together my grow light last year with the COB LEDs mounted to a fiberglass protoboard. It worked well last season; however, the system failed on me this year. I screwed up by not using the heat sink mounts for the LEDs. 3 watts may not seem a lot but concentrated in a small space the heat built up charred the board and the LEDs failed. My bad. My new design uses the star type mounting plates for the LEDs which I cemented to the aluminum plate with ArcticAluminum thermal epoxy. Now the devices run around 24C way below their rating.

Very bright and very hot. There’s an exposed metal plate on the back which I assumed was for attaching to a heat sink. I used heat sink tape and a 4x4 inch square of 3/32” copper plate as the sink. The LED lit but after a few seconds began to flicker rapidly completely off and on. It got hot enough to melt the heat tape and come free of the copper, within a couple more seconds as the heat built up again the flickering stopped. None of the materials involved can be read with an infrared thermometer, not the backing plate, the copper or an aluminum heatsink I also tried. So holding the pigtail I played an IR thermometer around the body of the led assembly looking for hot readings. The peak value I got was 183ºF but most often I got readings around 145ºF. I powered these from an 1100mah lipo battery with jst1.2 fittings. The pigtail wires were too thin and quickly became hot themselves. I converted to jst2.0 fittings and these became very warm but not alarmingly so. I bought these to experiment with adding lights to a magnifier headband but these run way too hot. I don’t have a clue yet how to fabricate a mount for them except perhaps to mount just the wires to them leaving the backplate spaced free to radiate. They’re fine devices, bright as hell, but they’re are hot as hell too.

Very Bright - i do mean very bright! You have ot use some sort of heat sink or they will burn out quickly if you are driving them at the limit of the power curve.

I've been critical of some Chanzon LED's for not performing to their rated spec's but these units actually do quite well near their max rating and priduce less waste heat at optimal output than I expected. I used them in a DIY EPAR LED grow lamp and they are all still running just like new after a full year of use.

They're advertised as 3W But they're rated 500mA which they get at almost 2V which is exactly 1W. So also they're little bit expensive for 1W Other than that they do what they should do.

Good value for the price but never believe the maximum power claims on these devices, they're almost always a lie. I would not recommend running any of them at their claimed max power rating because there seems to be some issues with this supplier mixing and matching their 1W and 3w devices to some degree or offering lower quality dies mixed in without downgrading the overall rating. For the most part I've been satisfied with their performance for the price I paid but just don't expect 3W rated dies to actually run at 3W without seriously reducing their operating lifespan. I can safely run all the 3W LED's at 2W but no matter how good the heat sinking is, they will build up too much heat on the die at 3W and cause damage to the lens, the adhesive and the phosphor layer. Fair warning. You can tell by looking at the bottom. True 3W dies have a heat pad the entire diameter of the ceramic die and the 1W units have a heat pad smaller than the die.

Utilisé en aquariophilie chez moi

Apenas lo acabo de instalar, todo perfecto, lo recomiendo .