

🚗 Upgrade your engine’s heartbeat with Ford’s genuine precision!
The Ford Genuine 5.4L 3V VCT Control Solenoid (8L3Z-6M280-B) is a high-quality OEM replacement part designed specifically for 5.4L 3V Triton engines. Featuring threaded 4-inch inlet and outlet ports, this solenoid optimizes oil pressure through smaller internal diameters, enhancing valve and lifter longevity. Trusted for its durability and perfect fit, it outperforms aftermarket alternatives, ensuring quiet, error-free engine operation backed by Ford’s manufacturing standards.
| ASIN | B00K8BN8QO |
| Best Sellers Rank | #39,983 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #4 in Automotive Replacement Canister Purge Control Solenoids |
| Brand | Ford |
| Brand Name | Ford |
| Connector Type | Threaded |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 1,210 Reviews |
| Exterior Finish | Machined |
| Included Components | 8L3Z-6M280-B |
| Inlet Connection Size | 4 Inches |
| Inlet Connection Type | Threaded |
| Item Dimensions | 8 x 4 x 7 inches |
| Item Type Name | Solenoid |
| Item Weight | 0.22 Pounds |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 8 x 4 x 7 inches |
| Manufacturer | Ford |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | Manufacturer Warranty |
| Material | Metal |
| Material Type | Metal |
| Model Number | 8L3Z-6M280-B |
| Number of Pieces | 1 |
| Number of Ports | 2 |
| Outlet Connection Size | 4 Inches |
| Outlet Connection Type | NPT |
| Size | 4x8x7 inches |
| Specification Met | Ford, EPA, NHTSA |
| Thread Size | 4 inches |
| Thread Type | Standard |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Valve Type | Solenoid |
C**S
Perfect fit and function
This part is the part you need!! The Dorman part I previously ordered failed after only 2 weeks. Installed this Ford specific solenoid and it fixed all of my trucks timing related issues and so far has lasted a month under everyday highway driving conditions. Ford redesigned these solenoid at some point apparently. The internal diameters are smaller on the Ford solenoid than on the other Dorman solenoid which leads to improved oil pressure which is a good thing for your valves and lifters, etc!! So, in summary, spend the extra money and buy this product. You'll thank me later.
E**Y
Genuine Ford - Everything labeled in Ford packaging
If you are going to rebuild your 5.4 L 3V triton engine, then you already know that it is a time-consuming Job, and you do not want to do it twice. I got this kit and I rebuilt my 5.4 3V, and now my engine is as quiet as can be, running perfectly, and throwing no error codes. I also did the rockers, the hydraulic lash adjusters, the VVT solenoids, a high volume Melling oil pump, and a number of other “while you are in there” jobs. I strongly recommend using genuine Ford for the engine internals (with exception to the Melling high-volume oil pump). The build quality, the fit, the finish, and the modifications implemented by genuine Ford are essential for this job. You do not want to mess around with counterfeit or aftermarket on this and you do not want to save a buck because all you’re going to do is have to redo the job or, worse yet, ruin your engine. I purchased these directly from Amazon, from “OEM Select Parts” and the parts were shipped from Beshore and Koller Ford, a dealer out of Manchester PA.
E**E
Solved my engine knocking @ idle problems.
Worked fantastic in my 2008 Ford Expedition EL with 5.4L 3V Engine. Near the 100,000 mile mark I noticed an intermittent check engine light appear on longer trips. Of course, I did nothing. it went away. lol. Around 103,000 miles after the engine warms up it started knocking and sounding like a diesel truck near idle. It shook violently. Check engine light remained permanently on. Drove to AutoZone to get my codes read. They told me it read 'Cam Position Snesor' over and over again. I purchased a couple of cam position sensors. I'm keeping the truck, I don't mind replacing some cheap parts at $15/per sensor and I figure they might go bad eventually anyway. So I replaced both cam sensors and of course it wasn't the problem. After more google searches I find out about VCT solenoid problems in these 5.4L engines. Makes them sound like a semi and shake when slowing down from around 1200 RPMs. Stop signs, fast food drive thru and slow driving through parking lots make it act up badly. I had HOPE that I could just pop open the seal stick a 27T torx bit screwdriver down in there and replace both in about 30 minutes. Of course not! 2007-2013 Expeditions are made so the valve cover needs to come off to get at these. So be aware, If the seal around this solenoid doesn't have a tab for a screwdriver to 'pop it off' then you're going to have to remove the valve covers to get these out. It won't even fit up through the hole, I wasted 1/2 a day on this! Hopefully you won't. Long story short, once both valve covers were removed the solenoids were replaced. They were both gunked up pretty badly. Got everything all back together properly and I reconnected the battery followed the PCM re-learn prodedure in my owners manual (basically let the truck idle in drive with A/C on full and your foot on the brake for a full minute) and the truck sounds wonderful, gets better gas milage and sounds like new! I figure I saved myself about $1000, after all is said and done. If you're one of the lucky people who get to remove valve covers like me, at least you can check a bunch of other parts that might be going bad in there. Hit youtube and Ford forums. I hope this helps someone out there!
A**R
Check to see if your motor has the round 1-3/8 gaskets!
Well if you have a 5.4 3valve and want to install these at home. I would first check to see if you have the small round 1-3/8” gaskets around the solenoids. After watching countless utube vids I was under the impression that no matter what year the motor was 2004-2009 you can change these without taking the valve covers off. IT IS NOT TRUE!! Mine is a 2008 built in 07 has the smaller round gaskets. After getting a t27 torx bit to fit the screw. 1/2 hour of fussing to actually get it to catch on the screw head. Tap it in then it unscrewed very easily. Reached in and grabbed the solenoid pulled it up and it won’t fit out the hole! In no fashion could I get it out. I took out the new gaskets and compared it to the new solenoid. Measured The distance from the screw mount edge and the far side of the solenoid 1-1/2”is wider then the gasket! So dbl check before ordering to make sure if you can get it out the hole. The bigger gaskets I’m sure u can but with the small round ones you’ll need to take off the valve covers.
R**L
Genuine Ford Part
If you are considering this redesigned Genuine Ford part, you need to consider the other genuine Ford parts that have been redesigned for a more reliable Variable Cam Timing (VCT) system. The basic idea of the redesigned parts is for smaller oil port orifices to increase oil pressure and lubrication within the VCT system. In addition to this part: 5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford VCT Solenoid 8L3Z-6M280-B you should consider these latest Ford parts: 5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Cam Follower Rocker Arm 3L3Z-6564-A (replaces 3L3Z-6564-BA) 5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Hydraulic Lash Adjuster 5L1Z-6500-A 5.4L 4.6L 3V Ford Camshaft / Cam Phaser 3R2Z-6A257-DA (comes with one time use 15mm bolt) I did not like reusing the Ford Cam Tower Bolts so I used the ARP Cam Tower Stud Kit 12-Point 3V 4.6L 2005-2010 ARP: 156-1001. These are not bolts. They are studs with washers and nuts. A much better design and quality fastener. All Ford and ARP parts are typically available on Amazon. Extremely critical to only buy Ford Genuine parts to get the latest VCT redesign. Also extremely critical to use the correct oil weight and do required oil changes. The picture I added shows the latest redesigned part on the left. Notice the smaller oil port orifice.
A**N
Did the job
Fixed the issue with truck shacking, easy to replace just take valve cover off.
E**D
Only VCT solenoid you should buy
This original variable camshaft timing solenoid from Ford Motorcraft FAR outperforms the low quality aftermarket versions. My engine had 2 aftermarket VCT solenoids installed immediately before I bought my 5.4L 3V F150 engine and were problematic from the start. On the mild days they would deliver inconsistent and non-linear power delivery on acceleration with a noticeable lack of power at times. They would malfunction the worst on the hottest mid 80° or hotter days and cause the vehicle to backfire, loose all power, and render the accelerator useless except for the slightest depression of the pedal. I don't know why the cheap aftermarket ones would be so heat sensitive but after installing the Motorcraft ones it cured the problem. The driver side was a bit more difficult to install because of the power steering pump reservoir and the air box that were in the way and should be unbolted and moved to the side. The passenger side is totally accessible however. The round black caps must be carefully pried up with a large flathead screwdriver and then a long and skinny T27 torx screwdriver or T-handle key can be used to remove the solenoid from the head. They come pre-lubed so no oiling is necessary. The cost of the Ford VCT solenoids are not that much compared to the useless aftermarket ones out there so don't waste your time and $ with any other cheap repro junk.
C**N
Connector wouldn't fit harness plug
Connector would not lock into place. Turn out one of the pins was bent enough to stall the connection.
Trustpilot
2 months ago
2 months ago