Liqui Moly-LM045 20597 Motorbike Engine Flush Shooter (80 ml)

Switching to a high-quality engine oil like Liqui Moly 10w50 can indeed make a significant difference in the performance of a motorcycle. The process of flushing the engine with a specialized product (Liqui Moly-LM045 20597 Motorbike Engine Flush Shooter) , followed by Liqui Moly 1502 Racing Synth 4T Engine Oil 10w50 and an oil Additive (Liqui Moly Motorbike Oil Additive MOS2 Shooter) , is known to enhance engine smoothness and reduce vibrations. This is because such products are designed to provide superior lubrication, clean and protect the engine, and improve the overall efficiency of the bike. While it may be more costly, the investment in top-tier engine oils and additives often translates to a more enjoyable riding experience and potentially longer engine life due to reduced wear and tear. It's unfortunate that the expected Liqui Moly stickers were not included, as they can be a fun bonus for brand enthusiasts. However, the primary benefit lies in the improved performance and feel of the bike, which seems to have been achieved in this case. Remember to always follow the manufacturer's guidelines for maintenance and product usage to ensure the best care for your Dominar 400.

Good product for bikes

Consider this my story—if it isn’t relatable to your motorcycle, at least it might inspire you to treat yours better. I own a 2011 Pulsar 220F, which has already crossed 1 lakh kilometres and 15 years, and it’s still going strong without any major issues. I am never going to sell this beast. What I started doing after the 50,000 km mark is what truly kept my motorcycle healthy, reliable, and problem-free. - I never skipped a single service interval while it was under manufacturer warranty—not just to preserve the warranty, but because consistency matters (not that I was particularly fond of Bajaj service centres, IYKWIM). - After the warranty period, I made it a strict rule to never use unknown, low-grade, or non-recommended engine oils. I always stuck to the manufacturer-recommended grade and trusted brands. - I replaced filters, spark plugs, oils, brake pads, cables, and gaskets at their recommended intervals—even when they appeared perfectly fine. Preventive maintenance, in my experience, is far cheaper than corrective repair. - I kept the carburettor, fuel filter, and brake callipers clean and inspected them periodically. Clean components ensure smooth operation and prevent unnecessary stress on the engine. When my motorcycle crossed 70,000 km, it was time for something more—a proper engine detox. Modern fuel and emission norms were never designed with these older engines in mind, and I knew it was time to give my machine the attention it truly deserved. That’s when I decided to use the Liqui Moly Engine Flush Shooter—and the best part was, it was entirely DIY. Here’s exactly what I did: - First, I gave the motorcycle a thorough foam wash. - Then, I placed it on the centre stand and added the Liqui Moly engine flush into the engine. I closed the cap, started the engine, and let it idle for 10–15 minutes along with the old engine oil. Since the Pulsar 220F is oil-cooled, I allowed enough time for the oil to circulate through the oil cooler radiator. I avoided revving the engine during this process. - Next, I turned off the engine and let it cool completely for at least 15 minutes or more—long enough to comfortably touch the engine head util i felt it cold. This step is important because it allows all the oil to settle back into the oil sump from the radiator tubes. - Once cooled, I removed the drain plug. The oil flowed out like water—thin, dark, and carrying years of accumulated impurities. Looking closely, I could see traces of metal particles, dirt, and sludge. That was a sign the flush had done its job. - Since the Pulsar 220F uses a centrifugal oil filter instead of a conventional replaceable filter, I removed the clutch case cover using a T-spanner. Then I removed the centrifugal oil filter cover with a screwdriver. Inside, I found deposits that had accumulated over years of operation. - Using a clean cloth and careful hands, I removed all the impurities from the filter housing and its cover. I avoided using fuel for cleaning, as it can damage rubber seals. Instead, I used a brake cleaner spray, which effectively removed remaining debris without harming components. - I then inspected and cleaned the oil pump assembly, filter wheel and its filter screen, ensuring unobstructed oil flow. - I replaced the centrifugal filter gasket and applied a thin layer of fresh engine oil to the inside of the pump using my finger to lubricate components before reassembly, preventing the pump from being dry when I crank the engine again. - I also replaced the clutch cover gasket with a new one from the brand, and reassembled everything carefully. - Next came an important flushing step. I installed the drain plug and filled the engine with inexpensive semi-synthetic oil, preferably from Bajaj, since it is cheaper than most and reliable. I cranked the engine, i could feel the engine running smoother now. I let it idle for 10–15 minutes or more and revved once in a while, hitting 4000 RPM. This allowed the fresh oil to carry out any remaining contaminants loosened during cleaning. - After allowing the engine to cool again like before, I drained the oil completely. I could see the oil drain out with not much residue, but with all the unwanted remains left from the engine. - Finally, I installed a new drain plug from the brand, filled the engine with 1.2 litres of fully synthetic 20W-50 engine oil from a trusted brand, replaced a new Engine Oil cap, and replaced the air filter with a new genuine unit. Now Time to crank the engine again. Voila, you have gifted yourself with a brand new engine, JK The difference was immediately noticeable. The engine felt much smoother, quieter, and more refined, not brand new, of course—but close enough to make me smile. I also make it a point to fill Shell V-Power petrol once every three to four tankfuls. It helps keep the carburettor, valves, and combustion chamber cleaner. Following this process every 10,000 to 15,000 km has helped my motorcycle remain healthy, responsive, and dependable. Fifteen years. One lakh+ kilometres. Still strong. Some machines aren’t just machines. They become part of your story.

The product delivers superb results, working fantastically. I purchased three quantities for my bike and scooter, and it cleans all sludges perfectly in one wash. My 10-year-old bike was spotless after using this. Before, when I would put engine oil in, it would turn black after some time. Now, after 15 days, the oil remains crystal clear.

Nice shooter

It works efficiently, but make sure to change your engine oil soon after using this flush because it can turn fresh oil black within a minute. Even after using it, not all deposits are completely removed—some black sludge may still remain. So, it’s better to change your oil sooner than usual. For example: If your normal oil change interval is every 3,000–3,500 km, after using this flush, you should change your engine oil around 2,000 km for the best results. Note: This advice applies only to users of semi-synthetic or mineral oil. It does not apply to fully synthetic oils, since they already contain their own detergent formulas.

Excellent product.i used it in my activa 125 bs4.along with street race 10w50 and mos2. Engine noise has decreased and smoothness is quit great. I recommend it to everyone who love their 2 wheelers..go for it hands down...👍

My Activa scooter starts producing white smoke after using this (as per guide line) I m regularly change engine oil and when I used this product in engine oil sufficient engine oil flushed but engine is damaged so this product probably damage Activa engine or it is not compatible for scooter