eSUN 1.75mm White ABS 3D Printer Filament 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), White

This is really good filament! It prints really well at 248C, has a smooth finish, and none of that nasty ABS smell. I have used other ABS filaments that really smelled up the house and even had a nasty smell on the piece after it cooled but not this eSUN ABS. The only gripe I really have is that the filament is so stiff it tries to pop off the spool and wrap around something every chance it gets but this is true for ABS in general I think. The spool is also very nice and has holes to tuck the ends in when you finish with it. It will warp on larger or long parts but again this is a trait of ABS in general and not particular to this brand. If you want to print larger pieces without warp I highly recommend the eSUN PETG filament as it gets around those issues.

I use this in a Stratasys Dimension Elite. I have tried several brands of filament on it and while it will print anything abs if no support is needed, not everything works with support. In order to successfully print with supports, the model material needs to adhere to support material and vice versa. This eSun white abs adheres well both ways, using the standard tip temperature of 275°C.The resulting print is somewhat uneven and goopy, for lack of a better term. Perhaps lower or higher temperatures would help, but changing the temperature on this machine is I bit of a hassle.Overall, this product is worth its money despite its imperfections, especially considering that the genuine Stratasys material that is guaranteed to work costs $250/kg.

I’m printing parts for a Voron printer on my CR-10v2, this filament prints excellent. I’m printing at 240c at the hot end and 100c bed at 60mms and 90% flow rate. Most of what I’m printing is 5-6 walls/top/bottom at 60% or more infill, many filaments I have tried fail/deform at high wall/infill settings. Warping has not been an issue at all printing on a PEI spring steel sheet. The color is actually a “cool grey” (blueish) compared to many other grey filaments that are a warm grey tone. Highly recommend.

Hopefully you know this already but you must use ventilation with ABS filament. Challenging material, it will warp like crazy unless you have a full enclosure. Maybe you can do single, small parts on an open frame printer but there's a lot of heartache waiting there.Cool material though, if you can get it printed in a toasty enclosure. Strong and a bit flexible, the B in ABS is for the butyl element, the rubber gives it its unique quality and impact resistance. It sands nice, paint adheres well, and ABS cement with ABS is the strongest glue joint you can get with 3d printed parts, because it is a solvent and melts the two parts together into one.To get it to stick I've had the best luck using "ABS juice" (abs filament and acetone) on glass at 100C bed temperature. The ABS juice does make an odd, shiny, sometimes papery film layer on the bottom, I often have to hit it with some sand paper.

Esun is well known for their great value for money filament. I had a lot of hiccups to get the printer to print it, it surely doesn’t like some printers, a lot of popping off issues, but once you get to know the perfect settings for it, it’ll print awesomely, at least for $20 filament. I’d recommend it to people who got their time, patience and experience with 3d printing, but not for new comers. So far I used black, blue and pink ABS rolls from esun and it’s fantastic.But always remember that this is a $20 ABS, it’ll give you what $20 filament would give and slightly more.

This White ABS filament feels odd to me. It has an odd, kind of chalky, texture and seems brittle after printing. For example, print an object with a brim and then hold the brim in your hand and crumple it. It kind of breaks and crumbles instead of just flexing and bending.Now, the reason I'm writing this review is that, today, I started a long print job on a large item. The total job was going take about 5.5 hours. I started the job in the morning before heading to work as I use OctoPrint to remotely manage my printer. About an hour into the job, I noticed that after the first layer, and about half way into the second layer, it looked like filament was no longer being extruded. I had assumed that the print head had a jam (which is weird for me as it would be the first ever), so I canceled the job and went back to work (hey, I gotta do SOME work at work). When I went home for lunch to examine the printer, I noticed that the filament had been yanked out of the print head. I inspected the filament path and immediately noticed that I couldn't draw any more filament from the spool when pulled on. Upon closer examination of the spool, it became evident that the spool had a cross-over. Somehow my roll of filament, several yards into the spool, had been crossed under another loop. It could only have been done by a human, IMHO, so I'm guessing that some helpful eSun guy had the spool unroll on him so he locked the filament in place under another loop, and then rolled and taped the end of the remaining filament over it. Now I have to wait until I get home tonight to set the printer up again. So, I guess I don't feel confident that there's not another filament lock somewhere further into the spool? That in addition to the aforementioned weird texture of the product makes me think I'll be avoiding this brand in the future.

So far, so good. This was not performing well at first using my normal ABS settings (250C with a 100C bed). I was getting distorted corners with some "rolling" traced to a hotter-than-needed print bed. DIaling things down, my print quality has improved considerably. I've found success with a hot end temperature of 230C and bed temperature of 78C within an enclosure. I have an Anycubic I3 Mega with an Ultrabase and an E3D V6 all-metal hot end modification, but find that I get reliable adhesion from a thin layer of glue stick on the base before printing. (It washes off easily with water and a paper towel when finished.)