RCP -CAS-9007US- LED Decoder Anti-Flicker Error Canceller Relay EMC Headlight Kit CANBUS Resistor Adapter

Works on a Jeep 2007 compass. Tried many things after upgrading to Led Headlights, the lights would flash on and off like there was a random loose wire on both lights. Turns out you need to add a resistor which is what this is. As soon as I added this the lights stayed on and ive had no problems. I tried a different one before this , it didn't work this does for the jeep/dodge/chrisyer cars.The resistors are the same as the ones you install on the indicators to stop hyper flashing if you have done that as well, otherwise its a good price . time will tell how long it lasts but appears well made.

These decoders werent exactly working for my vehicle but from extensive research i found that dodge, especially my nitro require a stronger unit to function as needed, the seller was kind enough to swap the less compatible decoders for ones that were known to work for my dodge nitro and they work perfectly.Amazing communication from the seller and a very nice product.Definitely make sure your car can support the product.

I got these for my 2006 Dodge Ram 3500. The instructions on the LED kit all say nothing is needed until 2007 model but when I plugged the LEDs in, they work with the vehicle off... and with engine on flicker three times and turn off. This kit FIXED the problem. I purchased 3 different kits from Amazon and the other two did nothing. This kit worked like a charm. Would recommend this above all the other kits.

So at first they didn’t work. Was still getting a error code in the dashboard. But after switching them back and forth they both worked. I actually had to start and restart my car I think to get them set to work. Maybe it’s all about the programming? My other concern is how hot they get. So hot to the touch, easily 180°, feels like a hot pan on the stove. I’m afraid they’ll melt my enclosure. They’re used on my Volvo XC60 2015

Purchased a set of Beamtech H13 headlight LED for a 2007 Ford Explorer and when installed they caused an error message to be displayed "Check Headlamp"; tried the Beamtech supplied all plastic CANBUS Decoder cables and they did not stop the error message from being generated.Really liked the improved light output of the LED bulbs so I gambled and tried this Decoder set with the large metal heat sink resisters, and the solved the problem of the error "Check Headlamp" from being generated on my 2007 Ford Explorer.

I have a 2002 Ford F250 with 7.3, I put LED bulbs in first they were flickering, and radio was so bad could not listen to it. Bought these installed and fixed my issues. Caution common with all resistor setup they get HOT! Make sure use screws to mount to metal not plastic or near flammable fluids. It is not a problem with product as I mentioned earlier it's what happens with resistors build heat. Great product! I also tried these on my HID headlights fixed issue with them. But I like the bright LED LIGHTS!

Stupid Chrysler engineers put a single point of failure TIPM that is sensitive to the current draw of the headlight and signal bulbs. These resistors draw enough current that in parallel with my headlights my car no longer winks at oncoming police cars. The only possible issue is the resistors get very warm to hot as they convert about 35 watts electrical energy to heat. Don't mount the resistors on plastic and keep them away from things that are sensitive to heat.

Works for a 2011 MB C300 using Hikari LEDs.I’m a little surprised at the variations in all the reviews for the decoders (not only this brand, but all the others, too). These are a pretty simple device. All they need to do is draw the same amount of current as a halogen bulb (LEDs use less energy/current than halogen bulbs, which is why many cars throw an error once they’re swapped with LEDs). But, on the downside, the decoders then have to dissipate that extra current draw somehow... in this case it’s dissipated as heat. Yes, the decoders get very hot! Don’t mount on plastic or near other wires or hoses in the engine compartment.If these are wired properly (positive/negative connections) I’m pretty confident they’ll work for most applications.