01012 Adjustable Tire Rack

Setup was easy, took a few tries to get the adjustment bars sizes correctly for my tires but they rest nicely now. I weighed these snow tires at ~70 lbs each before ordering. This would max out many other wall mount tire racks. Glad I ordered this one, feels totally solid and secure. There were some scratches on the finish but let's be honest... I'm not struttin' this rack around town, it's not in the elements inside my garage and it's used to rack my seasonal tires. Still 5 stars all the way. The bars they use are nice and hefty by the way. The welds and build quality are solid all around. The tires I have up there right now are 265 70 17 winter wheels and tires and my 275 65 18 all season should fit up there just the same. You can see that I mounted mine really high. To make it easier to get the 70 lb wheels and tires up that high I used a cheap block and tackle. Super-Handy Heavy-Duty 4,000 LB Capacity Rope Hoist -- it's a really cheap solution, the pulleys have more friction than I'd like... again, not the best but I do this twice a year. Just make sure you use a way over powered hook properly anchored to a beam on the ceiling. The one I'm using (from Home Depot) is rated for 375 lbs... not designed for overhead lifting but the job didn't stress the setup at all. In fact my 5 yo daughter was able to hoist it. Finally my wheels and tires are up and out of the way!! Thank you! ...looks cool too.

TL;DR: Great rack for the money with some manipulation and different hardware. Drill 3/16" pilot holes. Do not use an impact to drive the bolts into your studs; you will risk shearing them. Use a ratchet/socket combo. Easy to assemble and install assuming you have the proper tools. To answer one of the biggest questions regarding tires hitting the wall: they do not. But I guess it also depends on your size tires. The wheel/tire combo I personally have on it are the factory 18" wheels from a 2018 Subaru WRX Limited with the OEM summer Dunlop 245/40R18 tires. As seen in one of my photos, there is approximately 1/2" rear wall clearance. As for the included hardware, I did not use their 3" lag bolts. I spent the extra money on 6 3/16"x4" stainless lag bolts with 12 matching washers which were approximately $20 at Lowes. I used 2 washers per bolt; 1 on the head of the bolt and 1 in between the rack and wall. These seem much more durable than the ones that came with the rack. Cheap piece of mind. As for overall quality, I'm sure there are better made racks out there for more money. The main 'gripe' I have with this rack is the inconsistency of the folding arms. When both are fully extended, the front of the rack is not 100% level. However, I can assure that the main supports that bolt to the wall are perfectly plumb and level relative to each other. I used a laser mounted level and a spirit level to confirm. The problem lies within one of the articulated arm bolt holes. The hole, either on the right or left arm, was drilled either a tad too high or too low - depending on which way you look at it. (The right side sags a tad too low or the left sits a bit too high.) To remedy this, I drilled out the right arm hole a bit larger to make room for adjustment and then re-tightened. I do not plan on folding this rack so I'm not concerned about the folding joints being tight. My OCD got the better part of me since I wasn't able to perfectly center the rack in between my garage windows because of stud location. But it worked out for the better since my garage door track would have gotten in the way anyway. Mine is mounted 78" from the floor to the bottom of the main arms to ensure adequate clearance of my big head. There is approximately 8" of clearance from the top of the tires to the ceiling.

I bought this tire rack to keep a set of snow tires for my Nissan Titan off the garage floor. The packaging was beat up, but everything inside was undamaged and extraordinarily well-wrapped in foam. Seriously, I gave up unwinding the foam and hacked through it with a razor blade. If you are the kind of person who thinks "I'll just wing it" when you open a box of parts, as am I, then this may serve as a cautionary tale of thinking twice before drilling holes. Anyways, I carefully located three studs, drew a leveled line, and marked and drilled the appropriate holes. Then I brought the mounting bracket up and discovered that the holes in the bracket were not drilled along straight lines or vertical centers. So use the bracket pieces to determine your hole locations if you do not want extra holes in your studs. Also, the lag screws I received were a size larger than the ones referenced in the instructions. I don't remember exactly, but I think the instructions referenced 3/8" but the bolt heads were 7/16". So if you do not wish to precariously balance yourself on a ladder with a drill, an unwieldy piece of steel, and a lag bolt, only to discover you have to climb down again and get the right socket, might want to test fit on the ground. I finally got the brackets installed and level. I assembled the actual tire holder on the ground, and test fit the tires to get an idea of how wide it would need to be. Even on the ground, the rack looked a lot better than a pile of tires, and kept things well corralled. I realized that I could insert the entire assembled stand into the brackets, but it was a little unwieldy to get up the ladder and into the mounts. Once in the mounts, however, it was fairly sturdy and easy enough to adjust while empty. I had some concerns about the strength of the tire carrier, but this thing is pretty stout. It easily supported my 220 lbs of pure muscle as I did 12 one-armed chin-ups on the bar. Or, more accurately, it supported 220 lbs of wriggling, sweaty, middle-aged white man trying desperately to hold on to the bar until my feet came back into contact with the ladder. So it is pretty stout. The most important thing about installing the rack is to think things through. I loved the idea of using the space over my garage door to mount the rack, all the way until I had to carry my first truck tire up a ladder, and then try to leverage it into the rack while eight feet in the air. Then I realized that this was a very bad idea for me. When I change out my tires, I will probably relocate the mounting brackets to about chest height along a wall. Maybe shove the lawnmower under it or something. Final note of just random awesome: If you have a Nissan Titan with the Util-I-Track option, the bolt holes on the tire rack align with the bed rails, and you can secure the base to the base rails with a Cantruss or Unistrut 1" EMT pipe clamp, available at your local big-box store for about $1.98. Two spring nuts and two 8" hex bolts will have this thing anchored to the truck bed as though it were installed that way. Makes transporting tires marginally easier to secure, and clears up some bed space. I could have probably done the same thing with rolling them in upright and tie-strapping them down, but I had the rack and thought it was cool.