Powerbuilt Ball and U Joint Service Set, 23 Piece Tool Kit, Remove and Install Ball Joints, Receiving Tube, Adapters, Sockets - 648617

Worked great, use with ball joint pressing tool set, the one that looks like a giant C-clamp and comes with adapter discs and cups. Did a 2000 Taurus. The actual pressing out and in was easy, the real work is removing the steering knuckle (hub carrier) from the car, which can't be avoided. Another reviewer did it without removal, but it still requires slipping the axle out of the hub, and the car has to be high enough to fit the press from below. This may mean a lift rather than jack stands.I chose to do the pressing out and in on the workbench while standing up and with full access. My back thanked me. You need to remove brake caliper and bracket (Loctite on bolts, rugged), tie rod stud, ball joint stud, sway bar links, strut-to-knuckle bolts, cv axle nut, and ABS sensor (at wire connector behind fender liner or pulling sensor itself. Did both ways, one sensor was stuck.) YouTube has some vids. One shows hitting the tie rod stud end to remove. That almost never works if it was properly tightened, and don't pickle fork the tie rod end if you want to re-use it. Pullers are needed. The 2 hammers trick is also forbidden as the steering knuckle is aluminum alloy and it will be ruined. A larger, similar style (2 arms with a center forcing screw) puller is needed on the ball joint stud. Ford repair manual shows some bolts as single use/ "always replace". You'll need to order those ahead of time. The local dealership doesn't carry them in stock, which means their techs aren't replacing them. Hmmm ... . Same with Hondas. If re-using, clean off the old Loctite before applying the new. Look up specs and use a torque wrench. Allow a lot of time for this job. This car was original everything and it was hand-to-hand combat at almost every step. Also used Motorcraft MCSOE76 ball joints (Amazon), with better boot material. The originals cracked easily and had no grease fittings, which is why you're reading this. Also happens on Rangers, but they're easier. Any job can be done, but 1st timers will get stuck. Big hint: support the car with stands under the body rails, not the engine/transmission subframe ( the big rectangle under the front). I used the subframe and that compressed the subframe-to-body mounts. That raised the control arm just enough to make ball joint stud removal/ installation at the tapered hole barely possible, even with the arm pried down to its limit. I always get smarter afterwards, but it's better to not wait that long.

This worked perfectly. Don't bother with the cheap ones. This one is a bit pricier then others but we'll worth it. The whole kit weighs 60 pounds so it's definitely durable and not cheaply made. It's a bulky kit but removal and install is a snap. Must buy for an DIYer or Automotive technician.

I am now on my second front end rebuild using this kit 46. I have a coupe powerbuilt products. They will not fail you when In use. I have managed to bend a receiving cup because of a ball joint that was too small and I was too impatient. Other than that I have pulled or pushed ball joints, bushings, tie rods and the rest for front end rebuilds. Do not use a c clamp! Spend the money for this and your health. None of us want a tool shooting metal at us when it fails, and powerbuilt seems to be built not for power, but to ensure no failure events. My other kits are: separators and bushing press. Both amazing powerbuilt kits for the complete home mechanic. FYI I also reuse this kit with the bushing install kit for factory results.

I needed to replace the ball joints on my 06' Acura TL and this was very close to fitting in the knuckle. It was just a little too small to fit around the ball joint. I was able to grind away some of the metal on the specialty adapter to make it fit and remove the ball joint but I would recommend a large hammer or shop press to do the job instead. This set was cheap enough and made well enough that it doesn't bother me I needed to modify it. You will still need the c-clamp as this kit does not come with it.

I was skeptical whether this adaptor set would help me or if I could get by with the basic set I already had. It worked like a charm and was tailored to work with the Taurus suspension. There is a small adaptor in the set that goes over the old ball joint stud and allows you to push on the stud so you don’t have to cut it off. I am really happy I gave it a try.

I bought a bunch of ball joint stuff , and when I saw a vehicle specific ball joint set I figured it one day would come in handy and bought it because it was cheap and made by a kinda known brand so I figured f it. It was the only tool in the shop to get the ball joints off of the control arms. Everyone’s huge expensive kits lacked such a simple set up and it has done that twice now. Well worth it, has paid for itself already and am pleased. It is tight and kinda damaged the old one coming out(who cares it’s the bad one anyways) but it’s something you should be aware of. Used with an impact gun and it’s still working well.

This kit made it easy to install the ball joints on my ‘01Ford Taurus. I also bought the 10 piece ball joint tool kit from the same company in order to do the job. Very pleased with the heavy duty quality of these tools.Totally worth the extra money.

This is so much better than using a sledgehammer. This tool made removal of the ball joints on my Sierra 2500HD much easier.

Had to buy this as no where in the uk had this specific honda ball joint adaptors, amazon was the only place that had it for a good price compared to other american shops, arrived a week early and did the job

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Çoooooooooookkkkk iyi bir fiyata sahip oldum.

Es un producto dispuesto para utilizar en los talleres mecánicos. Es muy práctico y facilita mucho el trabajo cotidiano de los técnicos en mecánica automotriz.

Worked good