SIKA DriTac RS-2 Engineered Wood Flooring Repair Adhesive Kit, White, 1 qt

I purchased the little kit first and switched to this gallon quickly once I knew it worked. I used it on my engineered floor which is glued on a concrete surface. Over the years, I had many hollow spots. Some made a creaking noise when I stepped, some were just annoying because I could feel the air pocket under my feet when I stepped on the spot. It just felt different. If you are reading about this product and this review, you know exactly what I am describing. So here is a review and some tips Tips - Most importantly, you should know that this product works, and it works excellent. I am not sure technically how, but it feels like it is a glue that also expands with time to fully fill the gap. In the end, there is no difference between the spots that I fixed and the original floors that never had a problem. - At first, I used the little kit knowing that it probably would not be enough just to experiment. When I saw that it worked, I bought the gallon version. In my experience, 1 syringe full (50ml or 1.6 oz.) is enough to fill one spot (let's say one spot is a 6inch x 6 inch area) Most of my areas were larger, so I went in multiple of that to figure out how much I needed. In the end, I ended up using this kit + 1 full gallon - For every 6" x 6" area I had, I drilled one hole. If my area was double, I drilled 2 holes (1 on each side of the area of the area I wanted to cover). If it was triple, I drilled 3 holes to inject the glue etc... - In the instructions for multiple holes, they say to pump from one end until you see the glue come out the other end. In my experience, this never happened. Maybe I under-injected, but I achieved perfect results by sticking to the 6" x 6" area = 1 syringe-full equation - The stuff is super thick. As other users described, I coated inside the syringe with a thin layer of Vaseline. Day and Night difference. I would highly recommend doing that. Occasionally reapply as you feel the resistance increase. I recoated about every 10 syringe-fulls. - The manual describes not putting any weight on it and let the glue settle on its own. It sounded counterintuitive but I followed the direction and left it alone. Sure enough, it worked well. Thinking back, I think not putting weight is also important because this is a self leveling product. Let gravity do the work on this super-dense glue. I have read others put weight after the glue, and they reported good results too. I personally left it alone for 24 hours, and achieved A+ results. - The stuff is messy. No matter how many videos I watched, how many reviews I read, I could not avoid the mess. Even though I did it two times (first time with the kit to test, second time with a full gallon) it was messy both times. Keep wet and dry towels with you all the time as you are working. Gloves help too. - Don't worry if you spill. If you act in the first 10 minutes, it comes off easily off the floor, countertops, sink, hands. I have first-hand experience in spilling it to all kinds of surfaces (and I am a neat guy when it comes to this. That is how messy this stuff is) - Drill all your holes first, then start working with the glue and the syringe. This is related to the previous comments. Once you start using the glue, because it is messy, you are not going to want to switch hands, tools, gloves etc.. - Watch a quick video to see how they cover the holes in the end. That helped me and yielded good results. - The stuff is expensive. OK yes it stings a little, but the fact that it works makes it worth every penny. - Good luck

We purchased DriTac after my husband and a friend put down wood floors in two rooms of our home. The friend has experience in laying wood floors, but was not familiar with Dritac. After finding several bubble spots on the floor , my husband went to some local stores looking for something to eliminate them. Someone at a local store recommended DriTac and we ordered it from Amazon. Using a Crain needle tool, he slowly plunged the DriTac between the planks in the areas with the bubbles. In a matter of minutes the DriTac adhered to the wood and the concrete below. The bubbles disappeared and the floor was smooth. When my husband told his friend about DriTac, he said he never heard of it but would be using it for future jobs. We highly recommend this for wood or vinyl floor projects. There were no cons, but be sure to clean up any excess DriTac immediately or it will be difficult to get off the wood.

Ok so I never really write reviews but felt it necessary to do so in this case. I was misinformed on a glue purchase from Lowe’s when originally putting down our handscraped engineered hardwood floor. (On concrete slab) Anyway, learned my lesson there. Don’t skimp on the front end with regard to using a high quality glue. I should have bought from a true flooring store. Whatever you save is not worth the time having to go back and repair. Within days I had popping and flexing in the floor. I started doing research and found DriTac. This stuff has been a lifesaver and works as advertised. I have gone through one gallon and just purchased a second. Using a stainless steel trurkey injector with approx 1/8” syringe and drill bit. I literally have put probably 50 holes in the floor thus far. I know that sounds terrible but you honestly wouldn’t ever know. The handscraped finish of the floor has enough natural blemishes that you can’t even see the drill holes once filled with a matching puddy. Anyway check out instructional videos for application on YouTube. This glue is liquid enough to fill the voids where the glue was applied too thin or didn’t bond and has alleviated all flexing and popping. I would definitely recommend for any issues and necessary fixes with regard to popping and flexing. This stuff is expensive in my opinion but worth it. Thanks!

Update 2: Posted picture of wavy looking floor 24 hours after injection. Yeah, I'm not sold on this product. Now they do mention cupping may appear and would disappear after a few days. I'll update in a week. Update: Three things you can count on when using this product: 1. Zero support from Sika. 2. A mess. The product flows out of the needle extremely slow. One guy used a bigger needle, but I wanted to keep the drill holes as small as possible. But it will bubble up from the hole as you're injecting it. Use painters tape about 6" around your hole. 3. Exceptionally poor product yield. I got about 6 square feet out of the gallon bottle. So figure about $15/ft, so about 50% higher than the square footage price of the floor. The product also does not flow uniformly. Our floors were leveled prior to wood install, but when I inject this stuff, it will go 15" in one direction, and about 3" in another direction. The first project area is 10' long x 10-15" wide area to cover. I did about half of that area with a gallon. So I'll need at least another gallon just to finish this spot, and then I've got a few more areas. I'm going to be up to $300 really quickly here. Called Sika customer service over the past two days. First day the operator transferred me to a specific person. Left a voice mail for him, and figured since I was direct to an individual, I'd probably get a call back rather quickly. Nope, wrong. Never heard from the guy. Called again and this time she sent me to a technical support general mailbox. The message says all reps are busy, but as soon as someone is available, I'll get a call back. Nope, wrong. I want to get rolling, but have a few simple questions that are not answered with the poor instructions for this product.

Unfortunately our engineered wood floor installation left a lot of voids in our floor and the contractor has retired😤. We found this product and tried it. We are so happy with the results. Some of the voids were up to three feet in diameter. The problem was that this product (when purchased by the gallon) does not come with any injectors or needles to inject the product. I got on the Amazon site and purchased a 4 pack of 200ml syrenges, they worked great. I also purchased a 12 pack of the 14ga stainless steel luer lock blunt tip needles. I ended up using three gallons of this product, yes THREE GALLONS, but no more voids🤗the syringes and tips were well worth the money. The 14ga blunt needle fits perfectly into a 3/32” drilled hole. Just make sure that you hold the syringe straight and once you touch the floor back the needle up a bit to let the product flow!

It worked, this is sticky stuff. I bought the big bottle to finish the large area that was warped loose from concrete by a leaky icemaker years ago. The customer just wanted the area not to be so noisy and floating. I told her that this wouldn't take out the ridges from the warping and she was fine with that. This is cheaper than pulling it up and starting new. I originally bought the starter kit and 1 extra 32 oz bottle to do an area that was 8ft by 2.5ft . I didn't have near enough so I bought this big bottle to go back and finish. When I drilled through some spots seemed to have almost 3/8 inch gap to concrete below, so the glue just kept flowing in. I staggered my holes about 15-20 inches apart. I wasn't too prepared for the cleaning of syringe which can be done . I used brake cleaner I had in truck to spray out and clean before it set up in the syringe so I could use it again next week. keep the syringe clean. Any particle that gets in it including partially set up glue wil clog the tip, keep a pin on hand. I used a 18 gauge brad nail.

The product was very easy to use but, I did purchase 10 gauge needles and more syringes on Amazon to inject the glue. If you do just make sure you take your time and don't force it. I've used the larger needles before on furniture repairs and building. It's a little scary drilling holes in your floor but, after filling and touching up there almost undetectable. I even made some repairs on my neighbors floor. I see some business in my future.

We had a living dining, hall, and bedroom laminate wood over concrete. It squeaked with every step. It was going to be impossible to sell. We decided to carpet the bedroom and try dritac on the living/dining room, and hall. First we marked all the squeaking spots with a dry erase marker. Then with knee pads on we drilled, filled,and wood puttied all the spots. It took three days, we used two of these and one small starter kit. It was a lot of work. I kid you not. However, it worked! The holes are so small the job is invisible AND they are completely silent. Saved lots of cash. Needed to buy more syringes. Clean up well as you go. The job can be messy.