UltraPro Add-On Switch QuickFit and SimpleWire, In-Wall White Rocker Paddle Only, Z-Wave ZigBee Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE Switch, 39350

I wanted to update and upgrade my alarm system and home automation. Found these and they are much more reasonable in price then what the alarm companies are selling or recommending. My only grip was when you have to do a 3-way set up, you still need 2 switches to do it. Some other manufacturers allow you to use a standard paddle switch and just have one z-wave switch. Not a big deal, but a way of giving the consumer more bang for the buck. I ended up replacing 14 switches throughout the house. The Qyolsys Panel 4 learned all of them without a hiccup! Everything is working flawlessly through the app and manually. I like that the blue light can be programmed to be on when the switch is not in use and works as a night indicator at the same time. They look great, even when located next to a standard paddle switch. If you are comfortable installing or changing out an electrical switch, you'll find these a breeze. One thing that stood out is the double inlets for each wire. It really makes it easy when doing multiple switches next to one another. You can bring the wire into the first inlet and use the second one as an outlet to feed the switch next to it. I would recommend these to anyone wanting to get into home automation! Hope to see some z-wave wall outlets in the future as well!

I have 4 of these particular switches at my house, as well as more than 10 of the Honeywell and GE Z-Wave Plus paddle dimmers, along with 3 of the Z-Wave motion dimmers (all 3 are GE). They were extremely easy to pair with my smart hub and have been working flawlessly so far, roughly 10 or so days in. The paddle dimmers do NOT have double tap to full brightness drivers natively. Fortunately my smart hub community is full of very talented people who have created a driver that does allow double tap to full brightness, so I have added that driver to my smart hub and it works perfectly. The GE and Honeywell versions of these switches are identical. The Honeywell versions are about $5.00 a piece cheaper, so I opted for those once I confirmed that they were functionally identical. Both are made by Jasco. All in all, I would highly recommend these switches along with the other switches I mentioned. The Honeywell paddle (non dimmer) model number is 39348 The GE variant paddle (non dimmer) model number is 14291 These ^^^ are the same switches under different brand names. I own both, and both work perfectly. The Honeywell paddle DIMMER model number is 39351 The GE Variant paddle DIMMER model number is 14294 All of these switches can be used in 3 way configuration by buying the Z-Wave "add on" switches listed below. The Honeywell add on switch model number is 39350 and works with BOTH the GE and Honeywell dimmers listed above. I Have the GE Z-Wave paddle dimmer listed above paired with a Honeywell Z-Wave add on switch right now and that combo works flawlessly. I needed an add on switch for a 3 way light, and Amazon did not have the GE add on in stock, so I ordered the Honeywell just to try and see if it would work and it did. I have no reason to doubt that the same would be true if the parts were reversed (Honeywell dimmer with GE add on). Anyway, these things just work. They are Decora style obviously, so you need to be in love with the Decora style or ambivalent to it. For us, it was easy because we were replacing all of the 16 year old Leviton Decora style "smart" switches we had, with the new Z-Wave standard, so it was a no brainer. The last thing I will say is that ALL of the switches I refer to here in this review, require a neutral. They are also a little bigger/deeper than some other switches, so if your switch boxes are crowded with giant wire nuts, you might experience some issues fitting these things in the box, HOWEVER, since these switches have screw terminals for all wire connections, you should be able to eliminate 2 or 3 wire nuts per switch, per box. THAT in and of itself, makes fitting these switches doable. Basically, I would buy these switches again in a heartbeat. They feel very well made and ALL have worked flawlessly in our primarily Z-Wave smart home environment.

I bought this switch in addition to the GE Zwave switch - because I wanted to see which one is better - only to realize both look identical and without the GE logo on the other, its difficult to tell them apart! Then I found out, both are manufactured by JASCO!! So from quality perspective this switch is no different from the GE Switch review. Some of these will be exact replica of my other review. Packaging It came in a box with a user manual, extra paddle and white jumper wire. The manual has a lot of instructions and you should read it if you are new to electrical installations. If you havent done wiring before, I recommend you call a professional electrician. Wiring This is a 'self-learning' device which figures out which line is LIVE and NEUTRAL by itself. So dont get confused if the device says Line/Neutral on both poles. I have read other users had difficulty to get it work, so I followed the pole placements from the Gen-1: bottom pole as LIVE and top pole as NEUTRAL. Wiring is soooo easy! Im not an electrician but I have changed a lot of switches in my old house in the last 4 years. This was THE easiest way to plug+tighten a pole and a romex. Loosen the screw, push the exposed copper (1/2 inch long) inside, tighten the screw. If you have multiple switches next to each other (in my case 5 of them, 3 are ZWave) its very easy to keep the LIVE line common as you can do jumper from one to another. Startup There isnt much you need to do get these switches working. If you have wired them properly, as soon as the power switched on, you should see the blue LED come on! I was able to switch on and off right away. Didnt require any reboot/reset or anything. ZWave Integration This is one area where the Honeywell switch gave me grief and 1 sleepless night. I installed both the GE and this one together and side by side. First evening it just wont get detected by my Nortek ZWave stick. I almost ripped it off and sent it back. Next day morning I watched few videos and read Reddit comments and found out, you need to RESET this switch! So with the switch LED glowing, click the up paddle and down paddle very quickly 3 times. If you did it right, the LED will flash for few times. NOW its reset and ready. Now get "ADD Node" on Home assistant and click the up paddle. You should be able to see this switch after you heal the network. Phew! Signal Strength Its actually pretty good. Considering the fact I have 2 more ZWave switches right next to this one. No interference and works well. I will monitor this switch as time goes and update this review if anything changes. If it doesnt, 5 star is my rating!

What I love about these is that they work. I just invested in a whole-home security system using DMP products that utilize z-wave. I have never used z-wave before so I had hoped it would be easy. I often use TP-Link and thought it was pretty easy -- though somewhat tedious. Adding these to the z-wave was the easiest part of the whole ordeal. The hardest part? Putting the cover on over top! The metal surround is so thick that it will not allow the wall cover to completely encase it. In fact, the plastic internal housing on the back of it BARELY fits inside the gang box where my light switches are installed. I installed two of these in two different areas of the house. Both were easy to install -- and THANKFULLY they included the white wire that IS NEEDED in order for these to work. I had to dig out the white wire in the back of the box, and frankly, the white wire could have used at least another inch or two -- but it worked. That's really all that matters at the end of the day. I have TRULY never installed a light switch in my life -- until I bought these. I was so nervous. But, I turned off the power to the house and went ahead and TRIED. (after several youtube video demonstrations). It was not hard at all. Frankly -- how electricians charge hundreds of dollars for this work is beyond me. As long as you replace the same wires in the same places all should go well. I didn't burn down my house. They both worked the very first time. They both paired with z-wave within seconds. Now they work on a schedule to come on and off at specific times of the day. Life is grand!

I've been running smart switches for about 5 years. Originally I had installed Linear/Go Control switches everywhere, which do not have a "traveler" or any sort of physical connection between primary and auxiliary switches. In Smartthings, this is less than ideal because it requires setting up smart lighting apps that will turn the main switch on or off when an auxiliary switch is activated, and always results in an annoying delay. When you tap the switch, you want the light to come on immediately, not five or ten seconds later. These switches do exactly what you'd want them to do. They do not connect to the hub via Z-Wave, but they don't need to. All they do, and all they need to do, is control the main switch. If you turn an auxiliary switch on or off, it will instantly do the same for the main switch. No more annoying delay!! As for the Z-Wave aspect, that's handled entirely by the main switch, as it should be. I'm not an electrician, so I didn't fully understand the best way to handle multiple switch situations. With the Linear/Go Control switches, I used the "traveler" to power auxiliary switches. Wiring with these is initially confusing, but once you understand what the switches do, it's actually pretty simple. I had wrongly assumed that these switches need both constant power AND a traveler/signal wire. That's not the case, they only need the traveler/signal (both setups require neutral and ground.) If you have a 3+ switch situation, wire both auxiliary switches to the same traveler. Pretty simple! Not only do these work far better than switches that communicate only via Z-Wave (ie. using the physical traveler instead of a Z-Wave logical connection), but they also cut down on the number of switches that show up in the hub, thus decluttering the interface. I have a few more circuits to convert, and I'm eager to do so because these switches are ideal.

I'm hooked on these now. I pair them up with my Wink 2 hub and they work flawlessly. I had trouble pairing up my second of these the day I installed it, but the next morning it paired quickly and easily. I also experienced some WiFi interference with my Sonos playbar after I installed my second switch and had to jump thru some hoops to rectify that (with Sonos), but everything is working perfectly now. So far I've installed these for my front and back porches, and I know now that I'll add a few more in the house before it's all over. They also have a somewhat large box in the back so MAKE SURE you measure your gang box before you buy, taking in consideration all the wiring inside. You can buy extra deep gang boxes at Home Depot if you want to go that far. These are only good for single (1 pole) switches, and you have to splice a 14g neutral (white) wire into the back of it for it to work. The included wire seems to be made of aluminum braid, so I used my own solid copper wire instead. I'm not an electrician and maybe aluminum is fine for a neutral wire, but I'm not taking the chance. It's super cool to be able to turn your lights on and off from bed or from a thousand miles away.

These are great switches. The automatic line/load terminals make installation a breeze, and the included neutral jumper wire made connecting the required neutral wire easy. With the extra wires in our already crowded box, it made things a little more difficult to push back into place, but after putting on the wall plate you can't tell anything is off. The switches blend in great with our existing regular switch in the same box. Other than the blue LED, you almost can't tell these switches are any different. The rocker doesn't stay up or down, it's more of an on/off button where you press on the upper part to turn on and the lower part to turn off. We needed to setup two outdoor lights up with SmartThings so we could easily control and automate them. Adding them to SmartThings was very easy, just scan the QR code on the front and push the rocker up or down to activate it. It took a minute to find them and pair, but they were identified as GE switches. The blue LED indicator on the front is lit when the switch is on, and off when the switch is off. This makes it easy to see from a distance if the switch is on or off.

I have used this brand/model of switches a few times in my house and have had great luck. As for this add-on, the instructions allow for an easy addition to a 3-way setup of: power-to-switch1- to-switch2-to-light. The add-on switch DOES NOT WIRE the same as a dumb switch. The diagram was a little confusing for me (on where they labeled the load to the light), but looking back on how it was to be setup, it makes sense. So... you’ll need to verify your current wiring system and figure out which switch has the power coming to it. If you can’t do that, hire someone. So the switch with power will be your main smart switch (not this add on). The second switch will be this add-on switch. The add on switch needs a neutral connected and it will need the traveller wire from the first switch connected to it. The load wire from the first switch gets tied directly to the light’s line-in. Note, this is not how a traditional wiring goes. Why? So basically the add-on switch sends a “signal” through the traveller wire to the main smart switch, which then toggles the light on off. Boom done. Special note about LED compatibility and these smart switches: You need X amount of watts on your circuit. I think it’s 25W-35W? So not all LEDs will work well with this setup because there’s not enough power. Second, LED dimming is different than incandescent dimming. It’s due to the electronic component differences. So not all LED designs are compatible with this switch. I think I did see on another review that this is a TRIAC dimmer. You’ll see a flicker at all ranges of dimming if this is your issue. If you see a flicker only near the max or min of dimming, you can adjust the switch’s max and min to not reach the flicker stage. Between those two issues, I was unable to use this model pairing on my retrofit Halo lights 4-in 60-Watt Equivalent White Round Dimmable Recessed Downlight (RA404930WHR). I will need to use them elsewhere in the house since I bought then so long ago. For those lights I bought Inovelli’s dimmer switch and it works well. This add-on dimmer switch did not work for me with my Inovelli dimmer with my LED setup.

I ordered a few dimmers and switches from this brand, they are made by Jasco, same mother brand as GE and Enbrighten. They are super simple, up-down like the usual switches, so guests don't get confused with odd looking smart switches. Good value for money, the whole house has them and been working flawlessly for months now. I had no trouble with them going offline, they are reliable contrary to other zigbee devices I own. I believe they are from the z-wave 500 series (latest on market is 800 series) but for what they are supposed to do - turn on/off or dim a switch - it's alright with me !

EXCELENTE CUMPLE MUY BIEN MIS EXPECTATIVAS

Works so well, easy to install and very good quality. I have three so far and work very well with Smartthings.

When matched with their primary z-wave switch, these work brilliantly. And they only require two wires, whereas the old three-way switch they replace required three. Some minor rewiring required in all of my cases, but easy to do, and no concerns after install. These feel good, and the main switch reacts instantly to input from this one.

The quality of this switch is better than what I expected for this price. It is on par with Inovelli, GE and Zooz switches that I have around the house. It is easy to install, and the fact that it is not as deep as other switches really help when you have multiple switches in a double or triple gang box. They don't overheat, and are easy to pair. I paied mine with SmartThings, and synced it with Home Assistant. The device is snappy when triggered from the hub. The only reason I would consider another device over this one is if you need to have double/triple clicks to set scenes or other commands in the house. Otherwise that switch is exactly what you would expect.