PARMIDA 20-Pack LED T8 Hybrid Type A+B Light Tube, 4FT, 18W (40W Replacement), Clear Cover, Single-End OR Dual-End Powered, 5000K (Day Light), 2200lm, Works with/Without Ballast, UL

There are many different brands for sale here on amazon and it feels like Russian Roulette. Read some reviews and decided to try these. I prefer the 4000k color as it appears white to me and gives me a better CRI. This color also fatigues my eyes less here at work. I replaced some Sylvania 4100k octron/eco 32w bulbs that were 6 months old. The color seemed off to me on these and they gave a yellow tinted light. These were rated at 2900 lumen with a CRI of 83. The Parmida were direct plug and play replacements. I did not remove the ballast and just replaced the tubes. They worked with no issues. The lighting in my building is 277v and there are some bad ballast and I will be wiring those direct next week as I test how well these lights work. So far the only issue is the lumen descriptor as it states 2565LM and the box states 2376. To my eyes these led tubes are brighter than the old ones and they are rated at 2900. I will upload pics later if I can. I did not have any bad tubes in the box so far and none were broken as I got the clear glass tubes. I will be ordering more of these for the rest of the building as I need about 200 more. This has been a great product so far.

I was a bit skeptical when I bought this, but it turned out to be exactly as advertised! My ballast wasn’t on the compatible list, but I took a chance and it worked! I read in another review that just because it’s not on the compatible list doesn’t mean it won’t work, it just means that specific brand hasn’t been tested yet. Replaced 6 fixtures (2 tubes each) and noticed that 2 of the fixtures didn’t work. I discovered that it was because of ballasts that have gone bad. So I followed the directions on removing the ballast and doing a direct wire (it really does only take 5-10 minutes to do) and it worked! The one thing I noticed right away was that the hard wired was much brighter than the ones where I left the ballast on. I ended up rewiring (removing the ballasts) the rest of the fixtures and it is really bright! Very happy with the purchase and with the modifications. Bonus: removing the ballast saves even more energy on top of the led savings while being brighter!

Rec'd the 20 pack, it was shipped by fed ex...no fault of manufacturer or seller, but 3 of the 20 were broken...got in touch w/ amazon support, wanted to begin install of the bulbs i had, so they just gave me a discount ($20) which was great...just finished install of 16 of the 17 bulbs (8) two bulb flourescent T8 fixtures of varying make... Started installing (my shop) and at first left old ballasts in, noticed two units were malfunctioning, then made the decision to straight wire all of the units from then on out...all you have to do is wire one end up, each of the two sides in series (there's a wiring diagram included if you opt to eliminate the ballasts) The label on the tube goes to the wired end. And (I am assuming) being AC current, I do not believe that it matters if you wire hot/neutral either way to the two sides of the T8 clip...but it does matter that you split the 2 sides of the clips correctly... I did have one fixture that the ballast became very warm, thus my decision to eliminate all the ballasts in the first place. So at the end of the day, I can see every corner of my shop building!!! ( space is about 24'x30') I pulled new wire and added various switch legs for a combination of lighting effects. I also have LED spotlights on separate legs for downlighting table saw etc...but I was able to use all of the various T8 fixtures I had stashed in the rafters... The old tubes were buzzing, flickering in the cold and intermittent, but with the led's and a wiring mod they are all instant on and less energy use. I measured amperage on the circuit that feeds all of the led light tubes....(8) fixtures on two switch legs reading 1.8 amps. So 1.8 amps x 120V = total of 216 watts/16 bulbs = 13.5 watts per bulb. Unfortunately didn't take a before reading. Will buy more to light up another bay i have in the building (3) 4 tube fixtures

I converted three florescent fixtures to the LED because I was unhappy with replacing florescent bulbs and shirt they lasted. Additionally, the ballast fixtures are a huge waste of energy. Bought this pack for 4 dollars per bulb, and they'll last longer than I plan to live in this house. They also cut the electrical usage by more than half. I bought the 5000k for a garage, and now it seems like the space is brighter than the sun. I also used them in my kitchen. It made it brighter than I wanted, but that's better than inadequate light. The install was easy; I'd you have a basic understanding of wiring diagrams it's a snap. I did the ballast bypass because those were worthless. All in all, it's a prlurchase that was well worth it. I didn't need 20 bulbs, but for the cost I was ok with it. I'd recommend 4500k for a garage, but for a kitchen 3500k is probably more than enough. Like I said, 5000k is really bright. But I'm happy with thr savings and the amount of light produced, and at a savings.

It arrived next day after ordering , all 20 worked . I converted my t-12 fixtures just by rewiring them , very easy , i did not have to change out my shunted tombstones . The before and after lighting is amazing , i can see so much better in the garage now . It only been 1 day but very impressed so far , should be an energy saving will see , math says it will. instant light and brighness where before with the t-12 bulbs some had to warm up . now that i see how good these are will need to order a a couple spares in case as i used all 20 that i ordered. Great product so far !

My fluorescent fixtures were driving me nuts. A mixture of bulbs working one day but not next. With my replacement supply being depleted it was time to make a decision. I guess I got lucky. Wanted to replace the T832 bulbs with these. The fixture(s) I have are Lithonia LB432 120 ¼ four fixture lights which have a cover diffuser hence the clear replacement bulbs. Electronic ballast Accupro AC-RC-432IP-120-1. Fixtures were purchased in 2009, so 13 years old. Ballast was not on the approved list by Parmida. In fact, no Accupro ballast was listed as compatible so I figured I would likely have to do ballast bypass. Hoping for the best I just did a direct bulb install. Ha! Works with no issues. So as replacements for the T832 fluorescent bulbs these are really nice. They provide more light than the old bulbs. My only minor gripe is I had to purchase 20 when I needed 12 but now I have replacements which should last many years. The box was delivered with one end torn open but no bulbs were broken. My conclusion on this product is that I would recommend these as replacements. You do want diffuser covers over these. Your mileage may vary but I am very satisfied with this product.

I've been thinking of replacing my fluorescent fixtures in my shop for some time now, but gosh! What a chore !?!? Then, I did a search and read an article and watched a video about THESE specific bulbs. This brand comes highly recommended and they came in at a good price. I was pleasantly surprised that I could remove my old 4 ft T12 fluorescent bulbs (Yes, those big fat T12's) and simply take THESE bulbs, plug them in with a quick twist and Wham!!! 💡 Light. No changing fixtures, no changing tombstones (those little white things that hold a fluorescent tube in place), just plug them in. Just to make it clear, "Yes, these special "hybrid A + B" T8 bulbs will fit your old 4 ft. T12 fixture. If the ballast is NIT compatible, you may need to clip a few wires and do a quick bypass, but in most cases, you just "plug & play". There are videos that feature the simple bypass procedure on YOUTUBE but I did not have to do this for fixtures. Old T12 fuxtures.

They are fine when they work. It is when they don't work. I know these can fail but didn't expect them to cause fire and melt down. Update 7/18/25 : I lowered it from 2 to 1 because more tubes burned and melted since last time. They list American company but that only means the company has US address. Products are made in China. UL listing only means the product they presented to them passed inspection and what they make afterwards could be different. For now, just don't buy CLEAR tubes from Parmida since all the problems I had are from clear tubes exclusively. Could be bad batch or manufacturer cut corners on that batch, who knows? If you buy Parmida tubes, just buy frosted instead of clear tube just in case they still got bad batch of clear tubes.