- Table Top Epoxy Resin 2 Gallon Kit, Crystal Clear 1:1 Protective Coating for Tabletops, Bar Tops, Countertops, Anti-Yellowing UV Resistant, Food Safe, Made in the USA

Used this to redo a bathroom counter that had a previous epoxy finish that turned yellow. Superclear has the UV inhibitor and had good reviews so I went with that one and also used a darker color underneath (dark gray with quick sprays of Rustoleum granite) so if it does yellow a bit, it won't show as much. This product is self-leveling but it is thick so you need to use enough of it. I went with 3oz per square foot and I would say to make sure to use at least that much if not a little more. If you are doing a dirty pour then you will need a lot more than that. After I got the product out of bucket, I used a 1/8 inch trowel to spread and then used the chop-brush method. That works great to give a final mix of the product and ensure it is evenly spread. I did this on a 50 degree day, kept the door closed and the window cracked to allow as much working time as possible but I only got about 20 minutes after it was spread. Use the chop brush quickly - you will get bubbles but torch them quickly and then every few minutes when new ones show up. If you don't use enough product, it won't flow nicely over the edge - I have a few ridges even after brushing the product on the edges to help it flow over. Also, after 20 minutes stop messing with it or you will get divots. I saw a tiny hair near the sink and I got it out with a toothpick but it left a divot. To fix that, I waited 5 hours, mixed up about 1oz per square foot and rolled it on the entire counter with a foam roller. I dropped a bit extra in the divet and torched the bubbles - that worked so make sure you have a little extra in case you need it. It was hard to the touch the next day but I let it cure for 7 days before putting anything back on the counter. Overall the counter looks great. There are a few tiny imperfections but no one would ever notice them. Just be prepared to work quickly and then walk away.

I bought this product as well as the Liquid Glass version, for a coffee table made out of a tree trunk slice. This was my first project with Epoxy, and the Superclear team was very helpful to answer my newbie questions along the way. They were very friendly and provided great coaching. I will use their products again in the future and I strongly recommend them. I am still working on the project and will add pictures once completed. Here are some suggestions from my own experience: - Choose the right epoxy for the right application. If you are going to do a deep pour (> 1/4") you are going to need either a deep pour epoxy, or several layers of tabletop epoxy. - Have your tools ready (epoxy, mixing container, paint mixing stick, timer, gloves, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol for cleanup, torch for bubbles) and protect your work area because some of the epoxy will spill from the side of your workpiece - Follow the mixing instructions carefully (this product is mixed with a 1:1 volume ratio - I bought some cheap mixing cups -- use a timer and scrape the sides of your mixing container to make sure the product is thoroughly mixed. Failure to do so could result in the product not curing, or not curing evenly) - Check the temperature -- it was cold when I was doing my pours and I had challenges with it, although SuperClear epoxy is very forgiving (bubbles make their way to the surface and they pop). If the wood is cold, it will bubble up when you apply the epoxy (and it will keep bubbling up for hours). I ended up bringing the workpiece into a ventilated room and having a small heater to warm up the room, so that the wood would be at > 70 degrees - Prepare the wood carefully - make sure it is flat and that small holes are filled. A good solution is clear CYA glue (like 2P10) + a CYA activator to dry the glue faster. If you do not do that, the epoxy will go into these holes, and the epoxy top will not be flat. Once the glue is dry, it can be sanded flat with 80 Grits (I use a random orbital sander). If you want, and based on your specific project, you can use a colored CYA glue. - Start with a thin layer of epoxy, to let the wood absorb the epoxy (1 Oz per square foot). Apply the epoxy and then use a torch to blow up the bubbles. More than likely, the absorption of the epoxy will not be even across the wood surface and you will notice all the holes which were not visible before. Epoxy has an uncanny ability to show these holes, due to surface tension. - At this stage, you have 2 options: either you apply the next coat when the first one is still tacky, or you wait for the first coat to cure completely and then sand it with 220 Grits to allow the next coat to bond to the previous coat. If you do so, wear a mask! Epoxy dust is not good for your lungs. Once sanded, the surface will look white. Clean it with a rag, vacuum it and clean again with a wet paper towel to remove any resin powder. That wet finish is what it will look like once the next coat is applied. You are now ready for a second coat, and do not worry too much about sanding marks, as epoxy has a magic ability to hide them. Depending on the imperfections and the size of the holes, you might need to repeat this process until you are ready for your last pour. I have seen some people apply epoxy to just the areas with holes, until they were filled. You can theoretically use CYA glue as well, but it might turn yellow over time so I did not want to take that risk. - The last pour will have 3x the volume of the previous pours. Use a notched trowel to distribute the epoxy, and use your gloves to rub the epoxy onto the sides of your piece. Use the torch to remove the bubbles, and ideally cover your piece while it dries, so that you do not get pet hair or specks of dust into your epoxy (I am still struggling with that speck-free finish, to be honest). The larger pour volume will cover the last remaining imperfections, leading do a beautiful, flat, glossy finish. - If you need to protect the bottom side of your piece from epoxy drips, apply painters tape to the bottom side (just around the periphery), and once the top is fully cured, turn the piece upside down and use a heat gun to soften the epoxy drips and remove the painters tape. - If you need to fill larger holes, then you might need deep pour epoxy, and you will need to make sure that the hole does not go through the other side of the piece. If it does, you can use packing tape to mask the hole on the bottom side. You might also need wood (MDF covered with packing tape works well) to keep the epoxy from running. Also, you can apply a bead of silicone around the hole on the top side, so that you can overpour the epoxy on that side, to allow for some settling. See videos online for more advice. I hope this helps!

Product worked amazingly great. Very easy to use and mix and I was impressed with how clear the final product turned out. The instructions were clear and accurate. I was finishing a desktop to create a durable, smooth top. This product achieved that goal and I will most definitely buy this product again for my next epoxy project.

4 stars - Final result was great but I had difficulty with bubbles. This might have been my fault to some extent as it was cool (below the recommended temp for use) and the stuff was quite thick. Mixing was easy and very tolerant of minor inaccuracies in measurement. This was my first use ever of a clear epoxy product, so I practiced a lot before using it. Probably a quart for practice. But mixing would stir in bubbles. I used wood 1 qt paint sticks to stir it with. I also found that if I put a stirring stick in the mixing container and then pour the resin down the stick, less air would get into the mix. In my actual project pour, I used a heat gun (as recommended) to pop the bubble and that seemed to be the trick to having a cured product that was clear of bubbles. My final project was a large pour that was about a half inch deep that went well. I did a 2” deep pour in a practice piece and it melted the container as it cured. This stuff makes a lot of heat with a lot of thickness, so their deep pour product (which I also used) is better for that. The thickness of this resin mix worked well to keep the glow in the dark powder I mixed in suspended while it cured. The thinner liquid glass did not do well with this, The powder would sink. The cure time is quick; less than a day. So, overall I consider it to be a really good product, but it takes extra care with dealing with bubbles.

This resin is absolutely the best! I have tried so many resins and this one is the only one I will ever use again. Superclear is the perfect name! Glass like finish, no pesky microbubbles, beautifully level surface, and a shine like no other. I have saved so much time and money on my crafting side hustle using this resin. Please keep making this amazing resin!!! I'm addicted!!

I’ve been using this product for years now. Always fresh and quick shipping.