DrTim's Aquatics One and Only Freshwater (DrTim's Aquatics One and Only Freshwater, 2oz)

Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Freshwater One & Only Nitrifying Bacteria has been a game-changer for my new fish tank. This product has exceeded my expectations in various ways. Setting up a new aquarium can be challenging, especially when you’re trying to establish the right balance of beneficial bacteria. Dr. Tim’s Aquatics One & Only made this process a breeze. It quickly kick-started the nitrogen cycle, allowing me to introduce my fish sooner than I expected. Not only did it facilitate the establishment of a healthy biological filter, but it also acted as a disease treatment. It provides added protection for my fish by removing toxins and promoting water clarity. I particularly appreciate that this product is eco-friendly, which aligns with my commitment to responsible aquarium maintenance. In conclusion, Dr. Tim’s Aquatics Freshwater One & Only Nitrifying Bacteria is an exceptional product for anyone with a new fish tank. It’s efficient, eco-friendly, and a true lifesaver for both your fish and your peace of mind. I highly recommend it for any aquarium enthusiast.

I cycled a 40 gallon breeder tank using Dr. Tims Nitrifying solution along with his ammonia product. The tank completely cycled in five days as verified with the API master test kit. This is a great product! The fish are thriving in their new home.

Started 3 29 gallon tanks for a research project in biology. Tank 1: Plain Water with ammonium chloride as ammonia source. Tank 2: APIs Quick Start with ammonium chloride as ammonia source. Tank 3: DrTim's One & Only with ammonium chloride as ammonia source. Ammonium Chloride was purchased from Amazon (DrTim's Ammonium Chloride Solution for Fish-less Cycling). Each tank was prepared with a standard dechlorinator (It is important not to use any product that binds or "locks" ammonia, as it is required for the cycle to progress). Water was allowed to rest for 24 hours, filters and heaters running, temps set to 80.5F, 30 LBS of standard gravel in each tank. Each tank received an initial dose of ammonium chloride of 29 drops (one drop per gallon), which raised ammonia to ~2.0 PPM. Caveats: If you use an API test kit, you will likely see about half the expected ammonia concentration. The test is not accurate at low levels, and does not measure the type of source used as well as other master kits. Be concise with the dosing and you are fine. You can use a Nutrifin NH3/NH4 test or other high grade ammonia detection kit that measures NH3 and NH4. Do not adjust water parameters or add water for several days. If you must adjust water parameters, do so slowly. Water should only be added if it has been allowed to rest after 24 hours once treated with dechlorinator. Results at 6 days: Tank 1: Barely detectable amount of ammonia reduction, zero nitrites, zero nitrates. Tank 2: Some reduction in ammonia, zero nitrites, ~20PPM nitrates. Tank 3: .50 PPM Ammonia, zero nitrites, 50 PPM nitrates Tank 3 has had one water change already, and is ready for the second due to rising nitrates. It is processing enough ammonia at this point to equal ~11 inches worth of fish. Ammonia has been added to this tank daily to sustain the cycle, as fish were never going to be introduced. I will be adding fish to this tank however, and reducing ammonium chloride dosing. Decided to keep this tank. Myth 1: There are many posts on the Internet about fish-less cycling. Many of which suggest the use of off-the-shelf ammonia that you find in your local grocery or hardware stores. While some of these sources might be safe, most are not. The ammonium chloride is cheap, and will cycle many, many tanks. Consumers are generally unaware of the fact that not all ingredients need to be listed on products not intended for human consumption. Therefore, they see water and ammonia listed on a label and assume there is no surfactant in the off-the-shelf product. This is simply not the case. Most of these products do in fact contain other ingredients that are not safe for fish, and will destroy the bacteria needed for the aquarium cycle. This can be seen in one of the other reviews. The result was, the tank did not cycle as anticipated. If you want good results and have gone to the expense of purchasing a bacterial additive, spend the extra couple of dollars and get a pure source of ammonia. Myth 2: Some postings on the Internet suggest that these products use terrestrial strains of bacteria. All nitrifying bacteria need soil or other surface. Therefore, all can be considered terrestrial. They are commonly found on the bottom of lakes and streams. Our filters and substrate mimic this environment. While evidence in my experiment suggests that not all products are created equal, some products do work -- and work exceptionally well. Myth 3: The cycle will crash because it isn't the right bacteria. Fact: If the bacteria were unable to sustain, we would not see the substantial growth noted in tank 3. In order for the ammonia to be processes and nitrite to nitrate, a large colony has to exist. Once these bacteria undergo binary fission (how they multiply), there is no logical argument that would support this cycle failing. If you have an environment where they will multiply, that will continue until there is no food source. Any crashing would be the result of that food source not being adequate for the colony. Another possible source of crashing, high nitrates (more than 50-75 PPM) as this will kill the bacteria. It is also possible that once the cycle begins to establish, that the consumer adds too many fish before the colony is large enough to sustain. If you opt for fish-less cycling, use a pure source of ammonia (ammonium chloride). If you opt for fish-in, make sure you do not use an ammonia binding product to dechlorinate the water. Let the water rest for a full 24 hours before you add fish and the product. You may test for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate -- but only adjust your parameters if the results show >2.0PPM Ammonia or >50PPM Nitrate. Other than that, leave it alone for at least a week. If you do need to reduce any of the parameters via a water change (25%), fill your bucket the day before and add your standard dechlorinator to the water and let it rest for a complete 24 hours before adding to the tank. Keep your filters wet at all times (bacteria will die). I consider this product a 5-star purchase. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

I had already added Dr Tim’s ammonia to my tank a month prior to using this and I was getting really inpatient with the cycling process. This does not work overnight, but my tank was completely cycled in less than 2 weeks!! It really works, and you have to make sure to shake the bottle before pouring it in, also I didn’t know anyone with a tank so there was so other way for me to get any bacteria

It worked for me but took 15 days to cycle, from what I've read a cycle without using Dr.Tims can take 30 days or more. Maybe it would of been faster if I didn't use Fluval shrimp and plant substrate because it lowers the PH and I had to constantly be checking the PH and doing small water changes to get the PH to 7 or more. I didn't know anything coming in but I did research and this will work but there are rules. 1.Ph cannot go below 7 if it does the cycle will stall so you can get it kickstarted again by doing partial water changes. 2. Do not let your ammonia and Nitrite go over 5ppm or that can kill some of the good bacteria and stall the cycle, you can correct this by doing partial water change. 3. Please buy a api master kit or something like it because they are more accurate then strips and please follow directions of each test bottle for accurate results, if it says shake the bottle for 1 minute then do it, shake for 30 seconds do it. 2. Shake the bottle well of Dr.Tims Bacteria, this is a must. 3. Do not gravel vac or disturb the substrate. Do not clean the filters, do not change the filters. This is for freshwater I didn't do a saltwater tank but if you have Filter socks or UV lighting they must be removed for the 1st 48 hrs when you add dr.tims bacteria. Filter socks is not the average filter so don't remove your filter thinking it's a filter sock, look it up to see the difference. 4.Use a water conditioner that does not remove ammonia.5.if you are doing a substrate free tank this will take your tank longer to cycle because the only thing your benifical bacteria will have to grow on is your filter and maybe your tank walls and decor.6. You need a source of ammonia to feed the bacteria which Dr.Tim makes as well, do not add ammonia if you have fish, these are instructions for a fishless cycle, if you have fish the fish will produce ammonia for you when they use the restroom and the uneaten food will be producing ammonia for you.7.use a heater and crank it to 82 degrees again without fish in the tank. This will help bacteria grow faster, kind of like how hot tubs are breeding grounds for bacteria. 8. Don't add ammonia until you get a reading of 2 ppm just add 2 ppm ammonia by following directions of the Dr.Tims bottle which the newer bottles say 4 drops per gallon will equal 2ppm ammonia so if you do the 4 drops per gallon and you get your test and it says 1ppm on the test then that is okay don't add more ammonia to get it to 2ppm on the test, the reason it's not showing 2ppm is because the good bacteria is already working and doing it's job. This only applies to the 1st application. The equation is already done for you if you buy Dr.Tims Ammonia when doing a fishless Cycle 4 drops per gallon is 2ppm ammonia no matter if the test says 1ppm on first dose. Dr.Tim has a recipe for when you should check the ammonia and has a youtube explaining the do's and do nots, so that really helped me, check it out. 9. If you are not using Dr.Tims Ammonia then it will be very hard to figure out what 2ppm ammonia is and if you buy ammonia from the store you have to make sure the ingredient is only ammonia and possible water but if it says any other ingredient then no don't but it because it will contaminate your tank with soaps, perfumes, and other stuff. 10. If either or both ammonia and Nitrite are above 1ppm do not add ammonia. Look up Dr.Tims fishless cycle recipe and you will be shown when to check ammonia and other directions that way you are not wasting time and test liquid. Good luck, Dr. Tim can also be asked questions on YouTube and on his site, but it takes a while for an answer on YouTube try his email maybe it will be faster that way. Good luck

Did the job for me 👍

I tried bac bombs , biological enhancers and all sorts if other stuff whilst emergency cycling with a sick fish .. no2 n 3 n amonia just would not level fast enough . 1 bottle of dr Tims all at once levelled amonia a d no2 to 0 so fast i was amazed they didnt go back up either(make sure you watch the how to use video by dr tim on Youtube). Best stuff ever, will always have a bottle ready to in case of an emergency

It didn't start working on few first days until after doing a little bit of research that I realized I needed some nutrients in my tank to provide enough energy for the bacteria to reproduce. The problem is my case was lack of enough phosphorus and magnesium in water. So, check your local water for traces of these elements if your fishless cycle has stuck and then add pinch of ground fish food into your tank in case of lacking of them in your fish tank water. Check your fish food to make sure it has these two before doing so. If you need more information, search for fishless cycle phosphate block and you'll find more information on this.

Arrived safely and quickly

I was skeptical at first, having cycled tanks previously taking a minimum of a month i didnt think that this bacteria would do as advertised. However, i recently set up a small 60l aquarium, followed the instructions and less than 24 hours later my ammonia is almost nil. Nitrites still need to drop but usually takes at least 2 weeks for ammonia to drop to nil so already definately worth the money.