Audio Digital to Analog Converter DAC with 3.5mm Jack, Optical SPDIF Toslink Coaxial to Analog Stereo L/R Converter with Optical Cable and Power Adapter for PS3 PS4 Xbox

I can't vouch for whether this device would support full-spectrum hi-fi sound from the originating optical output, but it works great for me. The analog audio output from my upstairs Joey is distorted for some unknown reason, so the audio quality from the small speakers in my hobby room TV is really poor. I'm using a converter to send the Joey's analog A/V output via cable to provide a modulated signal to my TV, but since it works awesome when it's interfaced with the Dish receiver's analog output downstairs, I don't believe there's any issue with the converter. My hobby room TV is an older LG unit, but since it has an optical audio output that I'd previously used with a Yamaha soundbar, I decided that perhaps I'd be able to get some minor perceivable increase in audio quality if I could use the hobby room's Yamaha receiver in concert with its Polk Audio speakers to provide the audio versus those "tinny" TV speakers. This D/A converter allowed me to easily do this, and while the distortion is still resident, the marked audio quality increase allows me to now readily discern what's being presented on the news shows that I like to watch in the morning.

Review of - Easycel Audio Digital to Analog Converter DAC with 3.5mm Jack, Optical SPDIF Toslink Coaxial to Analog Stereo L/ R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable and Power Adapter for PS3 PS4 XBox DVD Roku --- YAY! This works. This product comes with everything needed to connect the TOSlink digital audio output on a new HDTV to the stereo audio inputs on your older analog, stereo Audio Receiver system. - This product includes the TOSlink cable you need to plug into your HDTV. This product also includes the AC to 5V DC power transformer needed as well. - Note, I chose this vendor - Easycel - over the other, otherwise, identical units being sold on amazon, because this one comes with the AC/DC transformer for power, and the needed TOSlink cable, which the sellers of some similar units on amazon don't seem to be including with their package. - The installation of this converter box takes just a couple minutes. First turn off your HDTV and your Audio Receiver. Then, plug the TOSlink cable (fiber optic) into the HDTV digital audio output. Then then plug the cable's other end into the TOSlink digital jack on the converter box. Next, plug the analog RCA stereo cable you were using previously to connect to your Audio Receiver's stereo analog input, into the RCA jacks on the other side of the converter box. Then plug the 5V DC power transformer into a 120V socket and the other end into the converter. Lastly, turn on your Audio Receiver and your HDTV. On the HDTV settings, select digital audio output, with PCM encoding. Voila, you now have stereo audio from the HDTV into and out of your analog stereo Audio Receiver. - Keep in mind that this converter box WILL NOT provide all the 5.1 or 7.1 digital audio channels from the HDTV as analog audio channels. This converters steps down and composites the audio to just two stereo analog audio channels. - For a little over ten bucks, this 2 inch by 2 inch little box, makes it possible to keep using an existing analog stereo Audio Receiver for sound from an HDTV. There are those of us who enjoy the creamy sound from our vintage (and now quite pricey) collector's item McIntosh Stereo Audio Receivers and Klipsch horn speakers (check out the draw dropping prices of those these days on amazon, which decades ago were affordable, but now require a millionaire's budget). - Ironically, the HDTV companies could have kept an analog stereo audio output pair on their HDTVs for a buck or two, but it seems that for some reason they are all needlessly skimping on the dollar or two that would cost them. Maybe they are in league with the Audio Receiver companies to force us to buy more gear. Thankfully, however, these inexpensive converter boxes save the day. - Although the converter box comes with a small instruction pamphlet, the unit is so obvious, and so easy to connect, that instructions are not required. - Enjoy!

As soon as I plugged in the power supply to the unit, it emitted a high pitched whine. When I hooked it all up to my amplifier, the whine got louder and no sound came out. I wasn't sure what wasn't working and tried playing a CD. That didn't work either. I ordered a new unit of a different brand that had a USB power supply. That one all worked fine. When I used the USB from that unit to power the Easycel unit, it played well too. It seems like the same components are sold under different names, which seems common for lots of things in China. A good working power supply costs a dollar more than the Easycel DAC. If the power supply worked, it would be big savings, but it didn't.

I have two setups (upstairs and downstairs). I’ll use upstairs as my example. Receiver is 2.0 but has the ability to be 4.0 if you enable A and B speakers. My A speakers are Bose Series III and my B speakers are Polk Mixer Speakers (spoiler alert: the 20 year old Bose are still better than today’s top of the line Polk but I digress) I have a dual tape deck, a direct drive turntable with an elliptical needle, a Tube Pre-Amp on my turntable, magnetic anti-interference on all cables, but hey! I also have a TV there and I want to watch shows too. Enter this device. Set it and forget it. Frankly it sounds better than plugging the fiber optic into a modern Receiver anyway. Older receivers actually pumped 150w to each channel at 4 or 8 ohms... modern receivers? They’re gimmicky. They hardly pump any power to most speakers, there’s no way to modulate power, and modern speakers themselves are nowhere near the quality of the old ones. That is: unless you’re willing to drop 20 grand. I wasn’t. This thing is Crisp as day. You won’t need to put magnetic anti-interference on the fiber optic cable, only the gold/copper large gauge analog cables coming out the other side. It doesn’t get hot. It’s easily hidden: and frankly, if you know what you’re doing then it’s way better than buying a modern setup. Downstairs is a similar setup: but my main speakers are Bose Series IV and my secondary speakers are a non-powered Sub (I had to get some adapters to make that work well as well as a separate amp) and the other is a center speaker. I had “downgraded” from a “top of the line” sound system... I am laughing out loud. I actually made more money from selling it than I spent finding these rare speakers and equipment and the sound quality is light years ahead of modern stuff. I also have a TV downstairs and bought a second one of this item to facilitate the ability to use my TV with my audiophile sound system. No regrets. And as I said, it really is set it and forget it. Couldn’t ask for a more useful product for the money.

I took a chance buying this adapter to get rid of the (INFURIATING) lag on Rocksmith 2014 edition for the PS4, and it works wonderfully! Finally! The one small gripe I would say that I have is that the audio is softer when adapting to composite red and whites. But... that might be a cord issue and not an issue with this adaptor, so I'm not going to judge against the item for that... In any case, the sound is clean with no buzz or hum. I am just SO happy to be able to use Rocksmith 2014 on the PS4 the way it's meant to be! Now, in an effort to help you troubleshoot, I will tell you how I have everything connected, so you can hopefully get Rocksmith 2014 going with no lag. My PS4 is connected via HDMI to a 4k Sony tv. Rocksmith 2014 and all DLC is installed on a 4TB non-powered external HDD, not internal ps4 memory. PS4 audio in the settings menu is set to digital optical and linear PCM instead of HDMI so the sound is being collected from the right source. Optical cable is connected to the ps4, plugged into this adaptor we are reviewing here, and red and white composites are hooked up from the adaptor out, to the back of a pioneer surround receiver on its own exclusive unshared assigned channel thats not already being occupied by an HDMI cable. (I use "CD in"). I hope this has helped someone. Happy Jamming!

Good Edit: after a few weeks of use this thing stopped working. All I got for sound was horrible pulsating static. It started doing this intermittently but progressively got worse. I returned.

This does the essential task of converting digital to analog audio, enabling headphone use. The manual implies that the tv volume adjustment (tv audio set to PCM) should control the headphone volume, but unfortunately my particular model of SONY HDTV does not work that way, so I cannot adjust my headphone volume when using this converter. In addition to following the manual, I tried a variety of TV audio settings to no avail. The only volume level I can get from my headphones when using the converter is much too loud, and there is an annoying hiss in the background that is only drowned out by the high volume level. I will probably be returning this unit and buying a more expensive one with a dedicated volume control. Now I know why many DAC converters come with volume controls! The volume might adjust on other TV's, but not on mine.

Works great on modern TV sets