EDELRID Jul 2

This is a pretty good alternative to the more traditional ATC type. I do find it a bit more difficult/sensitive to lower the climber back down and I'm going to use a glove on my rope hand now!

Very easy to use - not a good training belay, buy a bug for that - but if you know what you are doing then this is the absolute business. Unlike a GrisGris or similar, there are no moving parts in this belay, so nothing to go wrong. To let the rope out you just lift the front. Takes a while to become smooth but you get used to it. Virtually impossible to drop someone with this belay. You don't even need to hold on to the bottom rope really - the device self locks, gripping the rope between the belay and your carabiner. As long as the bottom rope is pointing downwards the device will work. Though you should still grip the bottom rope. I find it particularly useful because my climbing partner usually gets half way up the wall and then sits there for five minutes flapping her arms about. If I'm using the old bug she then complains that I'm letting the rope out. Does not happen with the Jul2.

Incredibly easy to use, assisted being without any moving parts. Lifting the thumb catch makes paying out slack a breeze while letting you keep your hand on the break end of the rope. Excellent to use with beginner climbers who are a little slower or people working on a project needing to frequently rest, let's you keep them in position without having to have full tension on the break line, saving your arm for when it's your turn on the wall. Works exactly the same as a standard ATC/tube belay device. Definitely use with a steel carabiner, preferably the one edelrid recommend as it will quickly wear an aluminium carabiner.

I did struggle with this at first finding it hard to pay out slack quickly when required for a clip, however I think I had it the wrong way round...(doh!) Having used an ATC for 20 years I found it a bit less smooth and effortless, however, this is to be expected as it's meant to provide more friction when braking which it does very well. I even testes it hands free (climber almost on the ground!) and it held fine without any slippage. I know this isn't a self arresting device but I think it would self arrest in the event it was required which is very reassuring. Not tried to abseil with it yet so can't comment on this. It is definitely well made and good quality,.