PWM Soft Start/Soft Stop Variable Speed DC Motor Speed Controller Recoverable Overcurrent Protection PWM Switch Control 9-70V 35A

This module is great, once you get it installed correctly! I have the Bluey theme Jeep ride on toy, and my 3 year old kid never liked driving it because it was so jerky when you touched the pedal. I installed this on the stock vehicle only, and did not bother with the variable speed pedal or brake pedal. I was able to program in a 5 second gradual acceleration with this module, and also lowered the power level from 100% to 40% so he could learn to ride the toy. This can be tricky to sort out exactly how to install it, though. I am very familiar with wiring schematics and electronics, and still didn't get it to work the first try (because the stock wiring is kind of a rats nest, and takes some time figuring out the exact logic behind what it's doing). I did contact the seller through Amazon, and got prompt responses, with suggestions to try. They also sent me a 2nd once to try in case the module itself was bad. I did eventually get it sorted out, and I am glad I kept trying instead of returning it!Long Wall of Text on Technical StuffI referenced a lot of the reviews to better understand how to install, so I am including some technical info to help others that may have problems.I attached the schematic of the wiring in my Bluey Jeep with the stock configuration (which is similar to all ride on toys from what I have read). I also attached the eventual correct schematic of how to get the module working correctly. Here are the highlights:My vehicle has Fwd/Rev/Neutral shift lever. I retained this functionality after installation. My gear shift switch had 6 terminals. The key terminals on my switch were the "middle left" terminal which originally had the white wire from the pedal switch (IE: press pedal, 12 volts gets instantly sent to middle left gear selector terminal). The "middle right" terminal had a couple of black wires, which tapped into the ground circuit. White was +12 volts into motor, Blacks were ground for the motors. A series of jumpers and motor pig tails allowed motors driving forward, motors driving backwards, and no power to the motors (neutral). Don't get confused with all the jumper logic allowing the gears to shift. This module is modifying the input to the motors...so the jumper logic doesn't change.Module Connections:P+ Terminal: This is "pedal switched" battery power...meaning the battery goes from the positive post, to the pedal switch. When my pedal is pressed, the red wire with 12 volts connects to the white wire, which sends 12 volts into the gear selector. I cut this wire so the 12 volts comes out of the pedal switch, and into the module. This does mean that the module is only powered on when the pedal is pressed. To program, I put a weight on the pedal with the gear shifter in neutral so it didn't drive away on me.P- Terminal: This is easy. I just needs to be tapped back to the ground circuit of the negative battery post. You can do this with terminal blocks, bus bars, T-splices, etc.M+: The motor positive went into the back of the gear selector switch. Remember above where I said I cut the white wire that went from pedal switch down to gear selector? I connected the end close to the pedal switch to P+, and the end going into the gear shifter to the M+. Basically, wherever the gear shifter originally got +12 volts going in, you want to send the signal from M+ into that terminal.M-: This was the one I messed up. The back of the gear shift had the black wire, which grounded the motors. However, the M- terminal does not need ground...it needs the "opposite side" of the motor. My original vehicle had a daisy chain of black wires going into the gear selector switch. I had to cut them so I could connect the M- terminal into the gear selector switch, while NOT connecting it to the rest of the ground circuit. It just involved cutting the other black wires off the gear selector switch wiring, and reconnecting them directly, bypassing the junction it originally had.Note: if you inadvertently short your M- terminal to ground, everything will look right: module lights up when you press the pedal, turns off when you release the pedal, and the wheels will drive forward and backwards. But none of the settings slow down the wheels. Once I realized the stock wiring had a daisy chain and corrected it, it worked awesome.

Complete P.O.S. worked for a day then got to where the throttle input was no longer detected. And this defaults to wide open throttle if it doesn't detected a throttle attatched. Very unsafe! I ordered a second one abd did the same thing after only 30 minutes. The pedal is verified working, its definitly these pieces of junk. Tried to send them back and the seller says they never recieved them even though i have a return reciept.. So now I'm double charged and I dont even have them. Avoid these! This is my second review since i bought two and both were badp

I purchased this PWM as it has the low voltage cutoff, soft start and the ability to set the power. It also has the ability to plug in a variable speed pedal and brake pedal. I didnt purchase the variable speed pedal, nor brake pedal, as my son is almost 3. Lets be honest, he will eventually learn to use it, but not at this age.I purchased this as it has the slow start so it doesnt give him whiplash or ruin the gearboxes. At first I didnt understand the instructions that came with it for using the stock non variable speed pedal on our power wheels nascar. I emailed their support and they emailed me right back and asked me how may wires my stock pedal had and what kind of shifter I had, etc. I had a 3 wire pedal and a High/Low/Reverse shifter. They responded and said I would need to remove the wiring for the 2nd switch and just use 1 switch in the shifter which would make it a forward/reverse shifter. I was okay with this as Low never gets used. Pic B is how my power wheels is wired up using this PWM with 100 power, the full 30 second soft start, which actually takes 30 seconds, so youll probably want to change that to 15 seconds and I have my low voltage cutoff set at 17v. Im using 2 Dewalt 20v 8ah batteries in parallel so that is a decent low voltage cutoff. Each battery brand have different low volt amounts, so google yours or play around with it. If your kid is driving it and it stops after a min or two and shows "LO" then your low voltage cutoff is set too high.When you have it wired using Pic B you will notice the LED screen doesnt power on. You have to press the pedal and it will power on in a second or 2, this is what confused me at first, and I was trying to set this up quickly so I actually wired it up matching Pic A so the PWM powers on without the pedal being pressed in. This allowed me to set my settings and tweak them, but you dont want to run it like that when your kid rides it. Why? The soft start wont really work this way and it will eventually power off when your kid decides they need to go back and forth like a bumper car. Ive read that people are burning these up or the soft start doesnt work, Im betting they didnt connect it to match Pic B or they are running (1) 18-24v 3aH battery which isnt going to provide the amperage the car needs especially if they are in the grass, etc. You should always parallel your batteries to give you more amp hours than the old big SLA battery. I really appreciate MGC too the time to work with me and Id recommend them to anyone who wants to have a soft start for their kiddo and control the power and save your drill batteries.

Does exactly as described, easy install if you understand what it is and how it works, great on a kids power wheel, ramp up and down speed is great, also top speed adjustment is awesome.

I have the PWM with soft start/stop along with the variable speed foot pedal. Bought it 2 months ago. It was awesome. The soft start was important to help stop stripping of the gearbox. Unfortunately It now stays on even with pedal released. Thankfully I did install a kill switch on the dash. Kid was scared and couldn't remember the kill switch. I had to catch him and trip the switch. I have read the questions and answers so I have checked the pedal connection and it is fine. Is it a faulty controller or faulty foot pedal? I do not know. It should be covered under warranty but there is no email available to help me contact the company. rlenlow@aol.com