Easy-to-Use Long-Lasting Complete Tru-Oil Stock Finish for Gun Stock Finishing and Maintenance

I love this stuff, and I can't find enough things to use it on! Stocks are just the beginning! Tru-oil is absolutely wonderful stuff! Now when I say that I'm polishing my wood, it isn't a euphemism! I'm a pretty handy guy, but I have moved a lot for work and always rented, so I never had a lot of household woodworking projects to do. I wanted to NICELY refinish a gunstock, but I have never really worked with wood much. I did a LOT of research to try to find a nice method of completing my task and I got a dozen conflicting pieces of advice. Eventually I settled on Tru-Oil, partially thanks to my uncle's recommendation (why not try to trust family above internet forums, right?), partially because of the price, partially because it was designed to preserve gunstocks, and partially because it was one of the easiest finishes to remove if I didn't like it. I am SO GLAD that I used tru-oil. This stuff is great! It really isn't that difficult to work with if you take your time, and the results are amazing! The grain in my stock catches the light and shimmers like a polished tigers-eye gem! I'd add a picture, but I can't take one that does it any justice. And it could have been even better if I had more experience. My impatience and inexperience left a few streaks and such. One day I'll refinish all my old guns to match, and I'll use Tru-Oil along with the lessons I learned in my first attempt. Some tips I learned in my first attempt: 1) Thin coats. Lots of them. A little goes a long way. I got in a hurry and ended up with some heavily-oiled areas and drops that I had to sand down, and I never got it all to match perfectly again. 2) Prep. I did a pretty good job of this, but I see how important it was. Your wood should be very well prepared and sanded super-smooth before starting. 3) WEAR GLOVES - the tru-oil does not wash off easily with regular soap and it took forever to get it off of my hands. After the first coat I started using latex gloves and cleanup was much easier. 4) If you use the stain, be very careful to do everything in one batch and in one pass. The stain's intensity multiplies with each brush stroke, so it is important to be completely even-handed. 5) If you don't have one, try to rig up some kind of drying rack so that you can coat a whole piece at a time rather than one side at a time (I used some folded cardboard to make a stand that only touched upon the unfinished surfaces). 6) You'll need more 0000 steel wool and rags than come with the kit. Possibly more sandpaper too. There is plenty of oil to do a few rifles. 7) The tru-oil by itself was too slick and shiny for my liking, the B.C. conditioner and wax just tidied everything up perfectly. I'm hooked and I highly recommend this stuff. I hope that helps.

This kit and company is still #1. I will never use anything else. The quality results i get are to die for. Once its all said and done it not tacky or sticky. I absolutely love the control of shade you have. No matter how many coats you do, if you want it a bit darker? Put another on. Let it dry thoroughly. Dont over saturate but if u do sand and repeat. Definitely wet sand after 4 hours of first coat to get a self made wood filler with same color. It is high gloss when finished but not sticky at all. Smooth to the touch. Slides in my palm when spinning my revolver. Looks store bought. I had my son burn a design in a set of triceratop wood grips i bought on here and even the burnt wood absorbed the stain. Just dont use cotten or felt. Dont polute ur finish with fabric debris. Using ur damn fingers and rub each coat in nice n firmly. After about 5 coats i got a rich dark walnut shade. Amazing!!

This is a great little kit. Worth every dollar. I’m not even going to take any points off for this because it’s not really a complaint. My only suggestion is to buy extra sandpaper. Preparing the wood surface is key. If it takes you more paper then it takes you more paper. The amount they send is suitable if you don’t have much prepping to do, but if you do, get a cheap multipack online. One key thing I learned that isn’t in the book is to clean the surface between sandings. Take a damp rag and wash off the surface to get all the loose wood off. Then take a hair drier and evaporate the dampness. This will “raise” the wood fibers not yet sanded on the surface for your next round of sanding. Repeat this over and over. For example: 180 grit, clean with damp rag, dry. 220 grit, clean with damp rag, dry. 400 grit, clean with damp rag, dry. Also take your time on applying the oil. Don’t go overboard and glob it on. It will turn out beautiful if you just be patient.

My first and so far only project was refinishing the stock on a Ruger 10/22. I decided to sand it down to bare wood first, and the reason I knocked one star off the rating is that there's not nearly enough sandpaper in the package to take a finish down to bare wood. Fortunately I had lots already, and wet-or-dry sandpaper is the way to go; the provided sandpaper apparently isn't. I did not use any paint/stain stripper, but did wipe the stock with mineral spirits several times between sanding and especially after the final sanding. I watched some YouTube videos before starting the satining and oiling, but should have watched more before hand. After applying the stain (I diluted mine about 4 parts concentrate to 1 part water), letting dry, then putting on the first coat of Tru Oil, the stock looked so bad I was about to sand back down to bare wood and get some Minwax products and start over. Then I found a video that said that it WILL look horrible after just one coat of TruOil! So I persevered and I'm glad I did. Patience isn't one of my virtues, but patience is required! One note: the supplied stain is water-based and walnut. If you want a different color of stain Minwax has a good selection of water-based stains. I don't know how well the Tru-Oil will work over solvent-based stains or other stain/polyurethane combination products. Don't use your fingers to apply the TruOil. The supplied instructions, and several videos or written directions, said to use your fingers to apply the TruOil. That made it very hard to put on enough oil, uniformly, without getting runs from too much. So, per a few other videos I cut a piece of new shop rag (clean white cotton of any sort will do), folded it so I had several layers of about a 3x3 inch pad, and used that as an applicator, applying the oil directly on the pad. (Be sure to keep fuzzy cut fabric ends away from the part of the pad you'll use to apply the oil. ) That made it far easier to put on the smooth, thin coats of oil that are needed. Fortunately with good weather I only had to wait about 3 hours for one coat of oil to dry. I sanded (water-wet 400 and 600 grit) in between (when and where necessary) then the next coat of oil. I'm now at 3 coats of oil and the stock looks great .I guess I'll have to wait a week or so to apply the satin finish product that's supplied; right now I think the stock looks too glossy with just the oil on it. One thing I didn't try, but found on YouTube, was to wet sand the first coat of oil while it's still wet. Supposedly that mixes fine wood dust with oil and forces it into any pores in the wood. I didn't see a need to do that. The supplied bottle of Tru-Oil was enough to do the stock, by the way, and there's some left over. It takes practice and patience, and I think it's an acquired art... although I don't plan on refinishing any more stocks to get the skills from repetition. Nonetheless I'm pleased enough that I can recommend the product without hesitation.

Purchased this to finish a stock I made for an old rifle. Everything you need to get factory like finish is included and works great. Just follow the simple directions.

Actually a great starter kit. Used it to finish my first stock blank. Nice to have everything If I decide to do it again. Bu your own sandpaper. Depending on the project your buying it for you'll most likely run out.

Tru-oil has always been a great way to refinish wood stocks, but this kit takes it to another level. The kit contains everything you need to apply a beautiful finish to your wood gun parts, or any other wood products, for that matter. Note that this does not contain what you will need to strip the old finish away. Chemical stripper, and other sanding products will be needed to remove the old stain and varnish. Once you have clean, raw wood, this will give you a beautiful finish. You can make the finish as deep and glossy as you want, by adding more coats/sanding. Great product.

It will give you a beautiful finish. Just follow the instructions. Take your time thin coats and allow it to dry completely. The more coats the glassier finish.