Katana Lace Climbing Shoe

I'll open with a little context on my journey to get these shoes:I own a pair of La Sportiva Nago and La Sportiva Otaki, both in 44 (I am street size 10.5). The Nagos were my first pair and the have been my all-around indoor climbing shoe and fit somewhat loose (they 'fart' when I walk due to small air pockets in the heel) but they are grippy enough and I could wear them all day. They have a few months left in them but are starting to wear. I had purchased the Otaki as my second pair, and for a few months they felt great--tight but doable and great as progressed from beginner to beginner-intermediate. But then one day, I don't know if because of an injury or what, the left shoe became unbearable to wear. I don't quite have Morton's foot, but my second toe is a little long and in the toebox of the Otaki it would bend and hinge and at the joint it felt painful, so much so that I had to stop wearing them.After a failed attempt at Scarpa's instinct VS size 44, I checked out a few brands and models at my gym store and arrived at the conclusion that for more aggressive shoes, my fit was more of a 44.5Enter the Katanas: I ordered these in 44.5 and they are amazing. I've just started wearing them today, but they feel great in every sense. Tight but not painful, as a climbing shoe should be. And they look fantastic too!These are really what I needed as I'm occasionally trying some 5.11 and 5.12 routes at the gym, as well as some bouldering requiring a slightly aggressive shoe. These are aggressive enough, but very comfortable. The lace is a great plus as it helps the shoe conform to the foot much better, and the shoe's tongue is slightly padded, which makes them a little warm (not necessarily good--I don't like sweaty feet) but also very comfortable to wear. My only negative is that they can be a little scratchy at the heel, but I've used them a bit and so far nothing serious (such as blisters or soreness) have resulted so I'm thinking that as they break in this issue will likely subside. In any case, it is not something that bothers me too much.

Great shoe. On my 3rd pair.Something I learned about climbing shoes, sizing isn't just about length but foot volume. In-general, if you have a low-volume foot you'll likely want to size down. If you have a high-volume foot, it'll fit true to size. I'm a 10.5D in brannock and a 11D in mot athletic shoes. This fits perfectly in a size 44.It's lined and made from synthetic leather which means it'll stretch very little. (Unlined shoes made from natural leather will stretch a lot by comparison). You'll want it to fit comfortably when you try it on.The shoe itself is excellent all-around but best on tiny edges and crack climbing. Most boulderers prefer a less-structured and more agile shoe.

I like the shoes very much. But I got some dead space in the heel now, so my heel hooks suck :) bec I don't feel anything. The shoes stretched a bit, my heels hanging in an air pocket, but the shoe still cuts into my achilles making a blister.I couldn't go half a size down, because I would die, so laces compensate for that a little bit. I am going to use them only for sport climbing now, where I didn't get to too many heel hooks level yet. The shoes helped me to improve my feet placement precision a lot.I gave 4 stars because the shoes wouldn't stretch enouph in my toe box so I couldn't go a half size down. I also have a bit trouble smearing, they are not very flexible, but it's a very minor issue. The shoes weren't obviously intended to do a lot of smearing.

Size before you buy.La Sportiva makes the best shoes and this is my all around favorite. Go for the TC pros if you're looking to do more trad, and maybe Miura's if your looking for pocketed limestone. This however has been my go to shoe for years. Excels on vertical faces and edges amazingly on granite. Resoles well and once the leather stretches in the toe box it starts to feel more comfortable as it conforms to your foot shape.

Cons: These shoes really dig into the back of your heel and the sides around the opening flare out even if you lace up very tight.Pros: Very good grip and high quality construction. These shoes are pretty easy to put on with the two tabs in the back and can be laced up to be tight were you want them and looser where you need it.

Grips to everything! I wanted more technique than aggression, and this is just what I needed. My buddy wears the Miura, and whether it's the aggressive styling of the shoe or how much he's downsized, he has to take it off frequently. At first this felt a little narrow on my feet, but after wearing them for a few sessions, I can wear these comfortably for 3+ hours at a time. Get the lace! It doesn't take much longer to put on/take off than the velcro.

My first climbing shoes. They left me aching a bit after several hours gym climbing, belaying, and bouldering. For a moderately aggressive shoe I find this reasonable and I'm sure I'll adjust too. Sticks to everything.

Lucked out, first pair I ordered were the right size.For the first 2 weeks, I could really only wear these for half an hour before my feet would hurt. A month later and they've stretched *slightly* so I'm comfortable in them between 1 - 1.5 hours.Ultimately, the shoes are just a tad too narrow for my foot. I think I'd be able to wear them all day if it weren't for that. Oh well.The fit is snug, but it's surprisingly soft and comfortable inside. Really surprised me there.