Dark Star Safari: Overland from Cairo to Capetown

By far, Theroux's best travel book. And they're all, at a minimum, extremely worth my time. What made this one exceptional was the timing of the read. I had held back on Dark Star Safari until 2018 after overdosing on other Theroux titles and feeling the need to sample other writers (many of them cited in Theroux's own works). His thesis - that Africa is doomed barring a miracle (sorry, Paul, that thought may be anathema) gains even more credence with me nearly two decades after Theroux journeyed from Cairo to Capetown, for this year has seen a spike in African strongmen rigging the game to stay in power and some economies struggling to diversify after the single-commodity free-falls of several years back. Local decision-making with roots in tribal governance, versus central government planning and concomitant shenanigans, seems to work best, the author suggests. And as an investor in a Sub-Saharan mutual fund, it's clear after reading this book that both Commerce Department analyses and investment come-ons remain woefully rose-colored. So Theroux, yet again, scores high marks for a very clear-eyed and sober approach to some very complex subject matter. Beyond the author's mastery of material (he has done plenty of homework and enjoys numerous contacts on the continent), Theroux's chops as an on-the-ground, sometimes in-your-face journalist, his disdain for "suffering fools gladly" and his ability to craft compelling mise-en-scene makes his work soar. The first 100 or so pages of Dark Star Safari are simply a delight to read, and as he moves down the spine of Africa his portraits of merchants, farmers, bureaucrats and fellow travelers prove deep and telling and sometimes just rollicking fun. Theroux has come light years from the work that made him famous, The Great Railway Bazaar, and what once amounted to caricatures in some cases are now real, live human beings that Theroux befriends and respects. (Having said that, "Bazaar" is still one of my favorite books.) Another great man of letters, Tom Wolfe, died this week. Reading his obituary, I realized for the first time that Theroux was one of the early proponents of The New Journalism that Wolfe helped found: painstaking attention to journalistic detail, no-holds-barred first-person narrative, and a unique, sometimes eye-popping way with the language that quickly drew lifelong fans. Here's hoping that Mr. Theroux, now pushing 80, isn't finished writing.

I liked the approach of the author and his bravery. Very interesting views on charitable work in Africa. Good questions asked regarding the way funding is utilesed for the NGO and its workers in stead of going into food, education and medicines for needy locals. Would be interesting if one could send someone on a similar route now (2025) and compare the situation now.

This is a great book. But then I like all Theroux's travel books. His erudite but frank and often witty observations make his books fun to read. What makes this book special is that Theroux has done and writes about two things that relatively few people have done and almost no one has written about. He has traveled overland from Cairo to Cape Town and he has made visits to Uganda 40 years apart. My gripe about his lack of insight comes primarily from two passages. The first describes his contempt for the international aid workers who whiz past him in their air conditioned SUVs while he stands by the side of the road with his thumb out. As someone who has ridden in these air conditioned SUVs (Central and West Africa 1981-1985) and has also stood on the side of the road with his thumb out (Melilla to Dar 1972) I understand what Theroux doesn't. The aid workers don't spend their days whizzing around in air conditioned SUVs but work, often hard, for months on end under arduous conditions and the bug free a/c of the SUV may be the most comfortable environment they are in all day or even all week. He expects the aid workers to stop and pack their vehicle with the hordes of people they pass on the road who are desperate for a ride? That's too much to ask. Or does Theroux seriously think that as a muzungu out for a lark with a wad of money in his pocket relief workers should stop for him but not offer the same courtesy to the local people? The second passage that demonstrates Theroux's lack of insight is where he recounts his conversation with a U.S. embassy employee who listens to Theroux patiently but seems unimpressed and has NOT (can you imagine it) followed Theroux's instructions to arrange for him to give some lectures while he breezes through town. Does Theroux like to be perceived as arrogant? Besides all that, the book is fascinating for Theroux's observations about people, history, and places, especially because he visits some very out-of-the way places. Even more interesting to me were his comments about his sojourn in Malawi and Uganda in the 1960's and his recounting of the conversations he had during his recent trip with people he had known as a young man. I'd recommend this book to anyone familiar with and interested in Africa and to anyone interested in African development as well as to anyone who likes Paul Theroux's travel writing. I would not recommend this book to someone with little knowledge of Africa.

Terrific read. Has to be one of the best books I've ever read. In fact, I don't recall any other author who writes quite like that--for example: One who can uplift my spirits at the beginning of one paragraph and onto the turn of the page, and reduce me to tears by the end of the next paragraph; one who manages to make me cry two or three times; and yet reading his account is an immense pleasure.

Having read nearly all of his travel books, Dark Star is easily his best. Indeed, for me it is one of the best travel books ever written. Paul not only gives a detailed account of his travels and writes superbly with good humour, but also throws in a lot of history, enough to enlighten but not enough to make it more like a history book rather than a travel book as does happen with some travel writers. Paul does not just report on what he sees but he is always asking the question 'why' which is one of the key aspects of any good travel writing. Having worked in some of Eastern and Southern Africa in his younger days he is in a superb position to answer that question both from his own experiences and from the comments of the people that he meets, ranging from simple, near naked, fishermen to the Prime Minister of Uganda. This is not a sanitised view of Africa or a hatchet job, this is writing from an author who clearly loves the continent and its people but who is horrified by how far life has regressed for the ordinary people since he first lived there. Not least because of the disastrous aid culture which has grown up and sapped the will of so many people. No doubt it will be uncomfortable reading to many who seem to think that foreign aid is the answer, but it has clearly failed badly as many highly respected people, Africans and Westerners, have said, as well as Paul. There is more to be learnt about sub-Saharan Africa from Paul's book than any number of other learned but politically correct or self delusional or 'picturesque' books and articles by other writers. A genuinely unbiased book which gives a very fair and balanced view and without belittling others, just the facts. He gives the truth but also celebrates what is good about Africa and Africans, which is more than one usually gets from writers on Africa. Thankfully, Paul doesn't pretend to have the answers but he sure gets to understand the problems. And his story is told by someone who leaves behind the comfortable limo or air conditioned bus and instead travels as the local poor people do. Paul's superb writing makes one feel as if one is sitting right next to him on his journey, but glad that it is him doing the journey rather than me - I like my comforts too much! A great and inspiring travel book.

This book is over a long journey Paul Theroux made through Africa about 20 years ago. He had determined before leaving that he would travel with as little as possible, and wore old clothes and shoes so that he could fit in with the crowds although he, as a white man, was always marauded by children and beggars seeking food and money. This was a journey from Cairo to Capetown where the inhabitants are described, housing, atmosphere, and scenery of the many countries which certainly give the reader an impression of a continent. He did this at a time when he was going to celebrate his 60th Birthday toward the end of this great journey, and in my opinion, not so many people in this age category would be able to withstand such a difficult adventure. I don't want to say more in order to not give away any secrets. I just urge you to read this book--you will feel justifiably rewarded. There is a reason why Mr. Theroux 's books are so in demand and well received.

Another excellent book by Paul Theroux, probably my favourite so far. Paul’s stories are all about the people he meets, the chance encounters, and the adventures. A great book, balanced, honest, truth telling.

Brought back several memories of my own days in Africa. Felt saddened to read that the m.v. Bukoba has drowned. It was a spanking new boat when I used to travel between Mwanza and Bukoba. The uselessness or the adverse effect that the so called NGOs' activities in Africa has been well brought out. It is unfortunate that the world is never going to leave Africa alone.