Corroseal-82320 Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Qt

This stuff is great. Converts the rust to a black tough primer, ready to paint.

I have used another product for a number of years dealing with rust as it occurs on a Freighliner chassis and tow gear and things. I've been surprised at how well it has worked. This product claims to convert rust in the same way but is water based instead of oil based. was a little skeptical about this being a water based product but read some reviews by professional restoration types on other websites that sounded excellent so gave it a try. First, water cleanup is definitely a welcome change. As to the product, the reviews of its long term effectiveness were good. I have no reason to doubt them but haven't used it long enough to confirm them, I have used it in a number of places over the past couple of months and been pleased with the result whether significant preparation was needed on heavy rust or just normal maintenance on light rust as it begins to occur. Follow the directions, including the additional coats indicated by the colors it presents as it dries and I think you will like the results. It will dry to a durable deep black finish somewhere between gloss and semi-gloss. It serves as a primer for paint at that point although the finish looks nice enough, even when applied with a brush ,that the only reason I think I'll paint is to make the adjacent surfaces look as nice as this turns out. I'm even considering just using this although it would make for an expensive paint where rust treatment isn't required. I did some black enameled panels where there was rust I brushed out in a few place and no rust in other places. I coated the whole panel and it looks nice and uniform in the previously rusted areas as well as the rest of the panel. I will definitely be purchasing more of this.

This stuff is great. I've seen a review where they complained that it did not cover paint in black. Well if you know the chemistry of iron molecules you would know it only turns rust black, it's also in the discrimination. It works great and they use this same stuff on iron ships. That alose should speak for itself.

This did not do what I expected it to do after reading reviews and I even called Corroseal. I asked them if this would turn my truck bed a solid black color and was told that it would. Well, it doesn't. If you read the website and the bottle, it says that areas that don't have rust will have a clear coat and that's what it does. Just don't think you're going to get a nice, even black primer coat. If your entire surface is covered with rust, then you will. If not, only the rust will turn black. Once you know this, and that your brush strokes won't show - which I was initially worried about - then you can just slop the stuff on more quickly. What this is, is a clear coating - that happens to also turn rust black, and seals it in a clear coat. That said, my main purpose for using this was to kill the rust in my pickup truck bed and seal and protect it from further rust damage. I live at the coast, and the rust was winning thanks to the salty air here. I lightly sanded the entire bed of my compact 93 Nissan pickup - the inside walls and the bottom. Then I scrubbed it with water only to get rid of dirt that had accumulated around screws, etc., then I ran it through a local car wash, as I don't have access to a hose at my apartment complex. The car wash also helped dry it. I chose an option with water and soap only. The next day after the sun came out and the truck bed was completely dry, it was about 60 degrees. I only needed one quart for my job. I bought two separate quart bottles, in case I wouldn't need them both. I'm glad I did it that way. Amazon let me return the second bottle. My advice - you will wonder if you're putting it on thick enough. I think I overdid it, but I did get really good coverage. Only the rusted spots turned black and you will see those areas turning black pretty quickly - within just a few minutes. So, if it's not turning black, it will just leave a clear coat there. So, don't think the problem is that you need to put more Corroseal on it, to get it to turn black. You just need good coverage - not multiple coats. When I went out the next morning, the black areas had grown and gotten darker. So, it will continue to "cure" overnight. I did end up with some areas that show whitish drip lines around the inside walls of the bed. I think this happened because I kept putting more coats on that weren't necessary, and perhaps it had dried to much? It's still coated, and if you were planning to paint it, it wouldn't matter. It still looks overall so much better than it did before, I'll get over the very minimal drip lines, that probably nobody else would ever notice or care about anyway. The coating darkened up the paint and it looks so much better. The paint was really faded in my pickup bed, and with the coating on it, it's a much deeper color and shiny. If you drip some onto your bumper, it will show the next day as a shiny spot - it's like Varathane. So, you might want to pay attention and wipe up any drips or spots. Still, the overall change in my truck is amazing. The bed is spotted with black and red (truck color), but it looks a deeper color and shiny, and no longer looks rusty at all. I also put some on my chrome wheels that had a few rust spots and it looks good. There was also a rusty spot on the front bumper where the previous owner scraped it, and I applied some there, and it turned it black, so now matches the bumper better. At any rate, for about $30 total, with a 3" roller (which made the job easy) some sponge brushes, etc., my truck looks eons better, and is now protected from further rust damage. I did take some photos and will see if I can upload them later. Edit: I added photos. They are the truck before any prep, the bed half-way coated - note where you can see some black but the rest is just a clear coat, a close-up of the bed where you can see areas where it turned black but the rest is a clear coat, the bumper after treated which used to be rust-colored and the final after photo of the truck. Although not the even black finish I'd hoped for, it still looks a million times better.

Work amazing, it needs patience (3 hrs or so) AND BEST RESULTS ->surface rust<-. Bare metal results not so good but works more or less. I mix water and solution 50/50 and put in a spray bottle and sprayed on 5X8 tilt utility trailer metal mesh deck, frame, stock rims and all. With some left over in the bottle, Don't get it on your hands 🙌 they will turn them black and then stain them dark blue. Impossible to get off (((WARNING !!! WEAR GLOVES!!!)))

I recently discovered Corroseal while researching rust mediation products on Amazon. Although I had not heard of this product previously, and it seemed a little pricey, I decided to give it a try based on the reviews. Boy am I glad I did! My test subject is a recently purchased 1999 F250 pickup. The truck was originally from Michigan, so I knew ahead of time that there would be rust issues. The first areas to be treated were the inside and outside of the door bottoms. Applied with a 2" bristle brush and 30 minutes later any rust that was present had turned from rust red to black magnetite. Moving on, I pressure washed the back half of the frame where the rust is most pronounced with a citrus based degreaser. Once it was dry I brushed on two coats or Corroseal with the 2" disposable bristle brush. Again, the rust was replaced with the black magnetite in less than an hour. It is important that loose or scaly rust is removed prior to applying the Corroseal, making sure to work it into any cracks or crevices. Once the whole frame is converted I plan to paint it with a Rustoleum oil based paint. Two quarts of Corroseal should do the job with enough left over for the mower deck, patio furniture, etc.. Much easier and more cost effective than sand blasting and I believe that the finished product will be comparable. UPDATE July 7,2019 I crawled under the truck last night and inspected the areas where Corroseal was applied. Frame rails, axle housing, brake calipers, bed bottom, etc. The areas with light rust that needed no prep other than the pressure washing look great. Smooth matte black finish. No new rust. The areas where the rust was thicker (frame rails and axle housing) showed a couple of spots of new rust. I believe had I properly prepped these areas with a wire brush they would look as good as the rest. The larger rust scales are still matte black (not rust), I just did not get the product into all the crevices. Remember, the truck wintered in Michigan. I am sold on Corroseal and have already made two more purchases for other vehicles I have been tinkering with. The wrought iron railings and security doors on our house have benefitted from treatment as well. Corroseal is the real deal and worth the money.

Worked great to seal in some rust on an antique candle holder. I added two layers of primer and two of paint. Good as new…

Let me first start off with I am not technical--I am a homeowner who wants to maintain my home. I noticed that a filter device on my AC unit was showing substantial rust. I called the AC company that maintains the AC units (you would think they would have spotted this but that is another story) and it would be $250 for the part and labor. After some research and advice from my father in law who is a mechanical engineer and a rocket scientist, i chose to buy Corroseal based on other people's reviews and a need for a true rust converter. I followed the directions to a tee--first bought a dollar store set of wire brushes to scrape away any loose rust and paint and then lightly sanded with some medium sand paper. Then I waited for early afternoon to apply Corroseal--it is thicker than water but not sludge like thick. I applied it with a dollar store paint brush which I threw away after using. I did shake it up and then pour it into a plastic cup and applied it to the filter. It went on perfectly --any excess just dripped right into the ground. It adhered to the filter without a problem including underneath it. I let it dry 3 days--instructions say 24 hours but I wanted to make sure. it was completely dry. As you can see in picture 2 that it dried to a black purple which according to the website is the correct color when it works. I applied it to the entire filter unit including areas that were painted as well as the rusted areas. After 3 days of drying (we had rain one day but the Corroseal once applied stayed on with no problem) I applied Rustoleum Rust Preventer as a top coat. Just sprayed it on and let it dry (3rd picture). Looks good now and I think this should save the filter for the time being--if I can get another couple of years out of it or more it is well worth what I paid for Corroseal plus the brushes--(I had the rustoleum from another project and the sand paper as well). I think my total investment was less than $25. Really impressed so far --it is doing the job and hopefully has saved me from an expensive AC repair. For any questions I went to the Corroseal website and it provided very good info.

Increible producto, sencillo de usar y seguro. muy efectivo siguiendo el proceso el cual no es nada complicado. lo seguire comprando cada vez que tenga un problema de oxido

Muy caro pero muy bien y facil.

Fácil aplicación

MUY BUENA CALIDAD

Esperaba una jalea naval, pero es un inhibidor de óxido de pintura imprimación. Funciona muy bien y se vuelve negro cuando está seco. Estoy muy contento con él y sólo usamos media taza para tratar una gran mesa de patio al aire libre.