EDO Tech Direct HardWire Power Cord Kit for Whistler Radar Laser Detector

Bought this to convert my radar detector to free up the only cigarette light I have. This worked perfectly on the first try. Excellent product and plenty of cord to run across dash to my fuse box. Has a build in fuse line to avoid power over loads.

I've been using a Whistler radar detector in my cars for years now and up until now have just mounted them low on the windshield and plugged them in via the 12V outlet. The new car I got has constant power going to the 12V outlet so you either need to unplug the cord or slide the wheel to turn it off every time you leave the car which isn't near as nice and simply having it shut on and off with the car itself. Surprisingly it was somewhat hard to find a hardwire kit for Whistler radar detectors (though there are a plethora of ones for Beltronics, Escort, and even Cobra) I didn't even see any on their website so the only place I can find them is here on Amazon. There is another brand but I like the looks of this one a bit better; the color coded wires, fuse holder, plug, and sleeve over both wires looks to be better quality on this one and this sells for the same price. (The thicker sleeve over the wires might be a problem for certain applications as it makes the wire a bit thicker and less flexible so keep that in mind.) The length is just under 10ft and I ended up needing every bit of it with only a few inches extra left to zip tie the wires down behind the fuse box. There are several ways to go about powering the detector but I think the easiest is to buy an "Add A Circuit" run the positive wire into it, plug it into the fuse box, and buy a loop connector to run the negative wire into and bolt it onto a screw on metal (which there should be on the fuse box or very close by.) Add a circuits can be found at a car parts store or a store that has a car electronics section. You'll need to know what style of fuse your car uses to buy the correct add a circuit. I also bought some common electrical connectors to use one for the ground since this wire doesn't come with one already installed but you could probably just wedge the negative wire down in between the bolt and metal or add a washer. The wires themselves are incredibly thin so I ended up stripping the wires back a bit more and folding them to make them a bit thicker to take up more space inside the connectors. When adding the "Add A Circuit" into the fuse box you'll need to know what fuses go where (you can find that in the owners manual of your car or online) and try finding a low power one (10 amps or less) that goes to something non-essential that powers on when your car is turned on like the radio, windows, etc. I'd avoid using one for the air bags or ABS just to be on the safe side. Before using an occupied fuse I would try plugging into any unused fuse hole as in my car I found an unused one in the perfect spot that only runs power to the radar detector when the key is turned to the ON position. In my situation of using an unoccupied slot I technically wouldn't need to plug any fuses into the Add A Circuit since the hardwire kit itself comes with the proper fuse to protect the radar detector, not to mention a 10A fuse is going to be totally useless to protect it anyway because the detector would be fried long before a 10A fuse blows but I plugged both in anyway just to have a few extras in the car and make it easier to pull the Add A Circuit out if needed. Depending on how your fuse box cover is designed you may need to cut out a section on the inside of the cover so it doesn't hit the Add A Circuit and not allow it to fit back on. I would recommend filing it down with a Dremel tool but I just used a good pair of wire cutters to hack away at the inner molding of the cover to give it enough space. The only "defect" this product has is the barrel that plugs into the radar detector itself is just a tad bit smaller than the factory one. It still is completely compatible but ends up being a tad loose and any time I hit a big enough bump or touch a button on the detector it would lose power for a second and come back on. To fix this I cut a very narrow piece of electrical tape and wrapped it on the end of the barrel closest to the rest of the rubber plug, making sure to leave plenty of the metal barrel still exposed. This made the connection very tight to where it will no longer wiggle or move at all even if I move the radar detector itself. I am using the Whistler XTR - 265 which wasn't listed as compatible but it obviously is. I believe all Whistler detectors use the same size plug so this should fit all of them even if your's wasn't listed. This hardwire kit enabled me to install my radar detector in a much better spot on my windshield which makes it easier to reach, hides any exposed wires a 12V setup would show, only powers the radar detector on when I start the car and powers it off when I shut off the car. I can now even put my sun reflector in the windshield without having to take the detector off it's bracket and out of the window. From now on I'll be installing all my radar detectors this way and as long as I stick with Whistler I'll continue to use this product.

Used to wire a Whistler radar detector direct to an existing fuse in my fuse box. No issues at all. Perfect length to run from fuse box (drivers side foot well) up the pillar across the headliner ending up right under the rear view mirror.

Works great for my Whistler XTR-335. It's got plenty of length to run along the ceiling and weather stripping to my fuse box (just above the OBDC) with about 10 inches of cable to spare. I was hoping originally to mirror tap, but on my 2011 Buick LaCrosse, the power cable and plug are completely encased and are not accessible. The reason why it didn't get 5/5 was because of two issues I had. First. There were -no- instructions on how to tap into an existing fuse (You just pull out a fuse, attach the black wire to any exposed metal[preferably with a bolt to secure it] then wrap the red wire around one of the contacts on the fuse and plug it back in to the fuse box) The wires were also ludicrously thin. So thin in fact, my wire stripper couldn't grip the sheathing even on the smallest (I think 24 or 26), so I had to actually use a knife and nick the sheathing and pull it off.

Used an add a circuit fuse tap to make sure the device was only powered when the key was on. Works like a charm. I was able to hide the wire in the interior trim all the way around the window to supply the radar detector. Plenty of length.

definitely need a connector to attach to ground, and an add a fuse expansion. if you haven't done before find a video of how to install on car/truck you have before ordering. Even with that it took me a half hour to find a ground screw to attach to.... that the wires would reach. the fuse holder seems sized a little smaller than most replacement fuses for sale, but does work when it is time to replace the fuse. [tube one]

Very easy to install, has to get creative and strip my cigarette lighter power supply and splice the open wires into it, but it definitely hides the bulk the radar power cable brings and gives my radar a nice clean look. Good length, had a little slack but I rather have instead of being short.

Though I've not installed it yet, I am confident it will be no problem since it has a very long wiring assembly. I had a cigarette lighter in the lower center island panels between the seats. I can remove the cover and access the wiring and use some of the solderless connecters and not even have to bare a wire. My biggest problem may be maneuvering the wiring under the other dash covers so I don't show much external wiring. Al in all I have to say "not bad" for a <$40 soution to my not having a radar detector for about 3 years.